Ibiza
The one & only
Ibiza is one of those islands where you think you’ve already seen and heard everything.
How many reports on its excesses, its ostentatious luxury or its new quest for well-being have we already been exposed to? Just like Venice, it is a unique destination, and one that is mostly disparaged by those who have never been there.
We have been walking it regularly for 20 years and frankly, we never get tired of it.
Discover it with insiders.
The first time we fly to Ibiza, we wonder. The nose plastered against the window, we look at it turning under the wings of the plane. The hills undulate under the pine forests. The coast is cut into tiny coves whose turquoise water contrasts with the ochre cliffs. Will the island really look like the crowd of images already in mind?
As soon as you land, you have to go to the northern lands to grasp its singular soul. It is here that one feels directly the heart of the island. A gentle rhythm with a lifestyle of its own, based on the re-appropriation of time, in harmony with the environment.
More Ibiza
The feature film “More”, directed by Barbet Schroeder, was released in 1969, in the middle of the hippie period. Most of the story takes place in Ibiza. It stages the adventure of a young German who discovers the pleasures but also the hell of drugs, at the initiative of an American woman with whom he falls in love. Shot about forty years ago, this film discovers the island of Ibiza still virgin of any urbanization. Pink Floyd signed the entire soundtrack. Ideal for lovers of the island who regret not having known it at that time.
We will spare you the simplistic images of “paradise of decadence” or “island of hippies”. Because Ibiza is above all a soul and a state of mind. Beyond the highly publicized excesses, the island is a true haven of tolerance and creation. Here, everyone rubs shoulders with kindness and without judgment. In Ibiza, you have the freedom to be yourself and to witness, like nowhere else, the peaceful and jovial coexistence of incredibly different worlds in a small area. The island is reserved for the open-minded and humanists. The hippies had seen right and for the greatest happiness of all, their philosophy endures.
The communion with nature, which is very present on the island, is also reflected today in its agriculture. There is a real movement to return to the land with the creation of many organic farms scattered around Ibiza where we love to buy supplies at the beginning of our stay. Excellent farm-to-table restaurants have also flourished on the island, brilliantly replacing the show-off places of previous decades.
The small country roads of the island, scented with pine oil, are the best way to reach the paradisiacal coves that have made Ibiza famous. Here we tan to the song of the cicadas and, what’s more, if you wish, in the simplest of clothes.
In Ibiza, there are no rules to follow. However, there is a real institution.
A ritual not to be missed on the island: the sunset. It marks each day the end of another day in paradise: when the day and the night kiss.
We then walk barefoot on the rocks to observe this moment of unique beauty, an almost spiritual act of giving thanks to the joys that the island offers.
The call of the sirens
Ibiza is said to be a magical island, but the powers of Es Vedra are far more powerful. Legend has it that in ancient times, mermaids waited on the rocks to attract sailors, who would jump into the water and drown. Only Ulysses, thanks to his cunning, was able to escape them.400 meters high, above Cala d’Hort, it is perhaps the third most magnetic place in the world.
Before leaving the island, a visit to Dalt villa, the upper town, is a must. Crowned by its castle and protected by its ramparts, it offers with happiness its quiet lanes and small shaded places to the strollers. This vertical labyrinth has fascinated many intellectuals and writers such as Camus and Prévert, who, since the 1930s, have seen in Ibiza a land of exile, a refuge of peace and serenity.
As I try to conclude this article, I remember with delight my very first stay in Ibiza. A couple in one of the island’s coves was languidly lounging on a towpath. Their bodies were lean and muscular, their skin tanned and subtly tattooed. Their hair tousled by the salt, completely naked like Adam and Eve on the first day, they were talking in the sun, before taking turns to refresh themselves in the clear water.
“It’s the first time you come to Ibiza?” she tells me from the water.
“Yes,” I said.
“Then you will come back”, she smiled, “you are now part of this island too”.
If she knew…
Ibiza, peace & love. Forever.
Ibiza is
45 km long by 25 km wide
Accessibility
Accommodation capacity
Animation
Where is Ibiza located? Ibiza is one of the 4 islands that make up the Balearic archipelago with Formentera, Menorca and Majorca, in the east of Spain.
How to get to Ibiza? The island has an international airport with excellent connections.
How to get around the island? We recommend the car for a first visit. Many rental companies at the airport. For Mini Moke or Mehari, the agency
Ibiza Sunlight
the vehicle at the address of your choice.
Where to sleep and eat? There is more than enough choice on Ibiza! However, we will avoid the “big” concrete towns like San Antonio, Evissa (except the old town of Dalt Villa) and Santa Eularia to turn to the smaller villages. We prefer the northern part of the island more rural chic between the villages of San Miguel, Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera and Santa Agnes de Corona. Santa Gertrudis, the most developed of the 3 villages, is a very good base for exploring the whole island. The island is full of seasonal rentals.
Some other addresses for accommodation:
Casa Maca, small charming hotel with a view of Dalt Villa and a good restaurant.
In the heart of Ibiza, agrotourism
Cas Gasi
in an old farmhouse that perfectly embodies the rustic and authentic character of Ibiza.
Uluwatu house,
a very cool B&B in the north of the island. There is also a separate house for rent.
Ibiza Campo
A completely renovated finca of 80m2 with a subtle rustic-modern mix in the north of the island.
Can Basso, a charming finca restored in the rules of art in the North East of the island in San Carles.
Atzaró
Atzaró is a historical address in Ibiza that has recently undergone a facelift. Gone is the Asian decor, so 2000’s and its profusion of Buddhas, and in its place is the concept of natural luxury that honors the Balearic essence of the island.
Les Terrasses
Half hotel, half private home, this refuge of serenity opened since 1988 is now almost mythical. The owner, Françoise Pialoux, has managed to give her country “finca” a special, family atmosphere.
The Giri residence,
intimate, exclusive, cool, and sophisticated. In the middle of the countryside, in the charming village of San Joan, run by a passionate Danish couple.
There are many good restaurants in Ibiza, here is our short (if, if) selection:
Eggplant
Aubergine, a delicious cuisine straight from the garden to the plate in a superb rural chic setting.
Raco Verd , a place of reference for the locals, is the ideal address to fill up with energy to the sound of live music in a festive atmosphere. On the menu, colorful Mexican cuisine, Spanish tapas and innovative cocktails.
La Paloma
La Paloma, known to insiders in the micro-village of San Lorenzo, the wildest place on the island. A family spot where you can enjoy a delicious and refined cuisine in the middle of orange trees. One of our favorite addresses.
In the heart of Ibiza,
Re.art
is one of the best tapas bars on the island. All the essential elements of Spanish cuisine are here, interpreted in the most delightful way possible. A must for all gastronomes.
Los Enamorados
the instagrammable place. Pleasantly decorated terrace to dine at sunset. 9 rooms available at the hotel.
La Escollera
the favorite of the locals on the windy shores of Es Cavallet. Iconic seafood restaurant with a casual charm and old-fashioned Spanish atmosphere with an incredible view of the island of Formentera. A must try: Yaya’s paella (the Catalan word for grandma), which was the first thing on the menu when the restaurant opened. Another classic is sea bass cooked in salt, using products harvested from nearby salt flats.
The Camì de Balafia
The Camì de Balafia, located in the north, is an unpretentious authentic Iberian restaurant. Locals and regulars keep coming back for its grilled meats and home fries. A cuisine without fuss that can be tasted under the oleanders and bougainvilleas of its terrace.
Cala Gracionetta
a nice beach bar for lunch.
The restaurant of
Beach Club
of Cala Bassa, in edge of beach in the south of the island. Convenient when the kids want to continue swimming.
Cala Bonita
for lunch. The beach is not crazy but the restaurant with its feet in the water is worth the detour. Rustic chic decor and good food of Mediterranean influence.
Es Bodaldo
Traditional restaurant with a magical view of Es Vedra in Cala D’Hort.
Oleoteca Ses Escoles
The Oleoteca Ses Escoles is an address with character that hides more than one (good) surprise: an olive library that honors the olive oil Can Miquel Guash and a patio with a bucolic atmosphere.
Bottega il Buco
in Santa Gertrudis. Short menu based on local and seasonal ingredients, perfectly prepared gourmet plates, nice terrace and relaxed atmosphere.
Giri Café, one of the island’s must-visit restaurants, is reserved for the initiated, as the entrance on the main square is so discreet that one hesitates to enter the dark corridor. However, it leads to a secret garden, wide open on the fertile countryside of the island. Innovative and refined cuisine such as the seaweed salad colored with flowers or the avocado cheesecake, flavored with lemongrass and lime…
The book to take in your suitcase? L’envers et l’endroit, Albert Camus’ first work.
The song to include in his playlist? La Notte by Cassius.
And especially where to drink your Spritz? A real dilemma to name only one for this island, you will have understood. However, we have a special affection for
La Torre
at sunset time.
If I had known, …
As a good agoraphobic, I would have avoided going to Ibiza in July and August. Otherwise, it’s whenever you want! The majority of restaurants open between mid-April and the end of October. The winter is mild and although it often rains, the spring is pleasant and conducive to hiking. The best season in our opinion is the month of September, with semi-deserted beaches bathed in a still warm sea. And if the dance floor demon takes you one night, there are the famous closing parties in the south of the island at this time of the year.
I would have tried the hike to the insiders-only cove of Es Portixol, nestled in the north of the island, near the village of San Miguel. Here, you will not come across streams of tourists, but only locals and regulars. And for good reason: this cove, which is among the most beautiful in Ibiza, is difficult to access. It can only be reached on foot, by walking a good thirty minutes along the cliff, or by boat, following the steep coast of the island. Walk around a bit more before putting your towel down. Beyond the crescent that forms the tiny bay of Es Portixol, you will discover dozens of small natural pools, carved into the rocks. Sit back and soak your feet in the crystal clear water, heated by the sun. A simple pleasure of which one never tires.
I would not have put my foutah in Cala Salada, but I would have walked along the cliffs lined with pine trees to reach in 5 minutes Cala Saladeta, its little sister where the intense blue of the Mediterranean Sea gives way to a crystal clear turquoise.
After having toured the coves, the great beaches, the alleys of Dalt Villa, the restaurants, the hippie markets and the stores…, I would have toured the bodegas, the organic farms, the hikes and why not the nightclubs! Anyway, see you in 10 years. Or never.
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