Ibiza
The one and only
Ibiza is one of those islands where you think you’ve already seen and heard everything. How many reports on its excesses, its ostentatious luxury or its new quest for well-being have we already been exposed to? Just like Venice, it is a unique destination, and one that is mostly disparaged by those who have never been there. We have been walking it regularly for 20 years and frankly, we never get tired of it. Discovery in insiders.
The first time we fly to Ibiza, we wonder. The nose plastered against the window, we look at it turning under the wings of the plane. The hills undulate under the pine forests. The coast is cut into tiny coves whose turquoise water contrasts with the ochre cliffs. Will the island really look like the crowd of images already in mind? As soon as you land, you have to go to the northern lands to grasp its singular soul. It is here that one feels directly the heart of the island. A gentle rhythm with a lifestyle of its own, based on the re-appropriation of time, in harmony with the environment.
More Ibiza
The feature film “More”, directed by Barbet Schroeder, was released in 1969, in the middle of the hippie period. Most of the story takes place in Ibiza. It stages the adventure of a young German who discovers the pleasures but also the hell of drugs, at the initiative of an American woman with whom he falls in love. Shot about forty years ago, this film discovers the island of Ibiza still virgin of any urbanization. Pink Floyd signed the entire soundtrack. Ideal for lovers of the island who regret not having known it at that time.
We will spare you the simplistic images of “paradise of decadence” or “island of hippies”. Because Ibiza is above all a soul and a state of mind. Beyond the highly publicized excesses, the island is a true haven of tolerance and creation. Here, everyone rubs shoulders with kindness and without judgment. In Ibiza, you have the freedom to be yourself and to witness, like nowhere else, the peaceful and jovial coexistence of incredibly different worlds in a small area. The island is reserved for the open-minded and humanists. The hippies had seen right and for the greatest happiness of all, their philosophy endures.
The communion with nature, which is very present on the island, is also reflected today in its agriculture. There is a real movement to return to the land with the creation of many organic farms scattered around Ibiza where we love to buy supplies at the beginning of our stay. Excellent farm-to-table restaurants have also flourished on the island, brilliantly replacing the show-off places of previous decades.
The small country roads of the island, scented with pine oil, are the best way to reach the paradisiacal coves that have made Ibiza famous. Here we tan to the song of the cicadas and, what’s more, if you wish, in the simplest of clothes.
In Ibiza, there are no rules to follow. However, there is a real institution. A ritual not to be missed on the island: the sunset. It marks each day the end of another day in paradise: when the day and the night kiss. We then walk barefoot on the rocks to observe this moment of unique beauty, an almost spiritual act of giving thanks to the joys that the island offers.
The call of the sirens
Ibiza is said to be a magical island, but the powers of Es Vedra are far more powerful. Legend has it that in ancient times, mermaids waited on the rocks to attract sailors, who would jump into the water and drown. Only Ulysses, thanks to his cunning, was able to escape them. 400 meters high, above Cala d’Hort, it is perhaps the third most magnetic place in the world.
Before leaving the island, a visit to Dalt villa, the upper town, is a must. Crowned by its castle and protected by its ramparts, it offers with happiness its quiet lanes and small shaded places to the strollers. This vertical labyrinth has fascinated many intellectuals and writers such as Camus and Prévert, who, since the 1930s, have seen in Ibiza a land of exile, a refuge of peace and serenity.
As I try to conclude this article, I remember with delight my very first stay in Ibiza. A couple in one of the island’s coves was languidly lounging on a towpath. Their bodies were lean and muscular, their skin tanned and subtly tattooed. Their hair tousled by the salt, completely naked like Adam and Eve on the first day, they were talking in the sun, before taking turns to refresh themselves in the clear water. “It’s the first time you come to Ibiza?” she tells me from the water. “Yes,” I said. “Then you will come back”, she smiled, “you are now part of this island too”. If she only knew… Ibiza, peace love. Forever.
Ibiza is
45 km long by 25 km wide
Accessibility
Lodging capacity
Animation
Where is Ibiza located? Ibiza is one of the 4 islands that make up the Balearic archipelago with Formentera, Menorca and Majorca, in the east of Spain.
How to get to Ibiza? The island has an international airport with excellent connections.
How to get around the island? We recommend the car for a first visit. Many rental companies at the airport. For Mini Moke or Mehari, the agency Ibiza Sunlight will drop off the vehicle at the address of your choice.
Where to sleep and eat? There is more than enough choice on Ibiza! However, we will avoid the “big” concrete towns like San Antonio, Evissa (except the old town of Dalt Villa) and Santa Eularia to turn to the smaller villages. We prefer the northern part of the island more rural chic between the villages of San Miguel, Santa Gertrudis de Fruitera and Santa Agnes de Corona. Santa Gertrudis, the most developed of the 3 villages, is a very good base for exploring the whole island. The island is full of seasonal rentals. Other places to stay include Casa Maca, a charming little hotel overlooking Dalt Villa, with a good restaurant.
In the heart of Ibiza, agritourism Cas Gasi in an old farmhouse that perfectly embodies Ibiza’s rustic, authentic character. Uluwatu house, a cool-minded B&B in the north of the island. There is also a detached house for rent. Ibiza CampoCan Basso, a fully renovated 80m2 finca in the north of the island. Can Basso, a charming, lovingly restored finca on the north-east side of the island in San Carles. AtzaróAtzaró, Ibiza’s historic address, has recently undergone a facelift. Gone is the Asian decor of the 2000s, with its profusion of Buddhas, replaced by a concept of natural luxury that celebrates the island’s Balearic essence. Les TerrassesPart hotel, part private home, this haven of serenity opened in 1988 and is now almost mythical. Its owner, Françoise Pialoux, has succeeded in infusing her country “finca” with a special, family atmosphere. The Giri residence, intimate, exclusive, cool and sophisticated. In the middle of the countryside, in the charming village of San Joan, run by a passionate Danish couple. There are lots of great restaurants in Ibiza, so here’s our short (yes, yes) selection: EggplantAubergine, delicious cuisine straight from the garden to the plate, in a superb rural chic setting. Raco Verd , a landmark for locals, is the ideal place to recharge your batteries to the sound of live music in a festive atmosphere. The menu features colorful Mexican cuisine, Spanish tapas and innovative cocktails. La PalomaLa Paloma, known to insiders in the micro-village of San Lorenzo, is the island’s wildest spot. A family spot where you can enjoy a delicious and refined cuisine in the middle of orange trees. One of our favorite addresses. In the heart of Ibiza, Re.art is one of the best tapas bars on the island. All the essential elements of Spanish cuisine are here, interpreted in the most delightful way possible. A must for all gourmets. Los Enamoradosthe instagrammable place. Pleasantly decorated terrace to dine at sunset. 9 rooms available at the hotel. La EscolleraA local favorite on the windy shores of Es Cavallet. Iconic seafood restaurant with a casual charm and old-fashioned Spanish atmosphere with an incredible view of the island of Formentera. A must try: Yaya’s paella (the Catalan word for grandma), which was the first thing on the menu when the restaurant opened. Another classic is sea bass cooked in salt, using products harvested from nearby salt flats. The Camì de Balafialocated in the north of the town, is an unpretentious, authentic Ibicenco restaurant. Locals and regulars keep coming back for its grilled meats and home fries. A no-frills cuisine to be savoured under the oleanders and bougainvilleas of the terrace. Cala GracionettaA pleasant beach bar for lunch. The Beach Club at Cala Bassa, on the beach in the south of the island. Handy when the kids want to keep on swimming. Cala BonitaFor lunch. The beach isn’t crazy, but the waterfront restaurant is well worth a visit. Rustic chic decor and Mediterranean-influenced dishes. Es BodaldoTraditional restaurant with a magical view of Es Vedra in Cala D’Hort. Oleoteca Ses Escolesa characterful address that hides more than one (pleasant) surprise: an olive library featuring Can Miquel Guash olive oil and a patio with a bucolic atmosphere. Bottega il BucoBottega il Buco, in Santa Gertrudis. A short menu based on local and seasonal ingredients, perfectly prepared gourmet plates, a pretty terrace and a relaxed atmosphere. Giri Café, one of the island’s must-try restaurants, reserved for the initiated, as the entrance on the main square is so discreet that you hesitate to enter the dark corridor. However, it leads to a secret garden, wide open on the fertile countryside of the island. Innovative and refined cuisine such as the seaweed salad colored with flowers or the avocado cheesecake, flavored with lemongrass and lime…
The book to take in your suitcase? L’envers et l’endroit, Albert Camus’ first work.
The song to include in your playlist? Cassius’ La Notte .
And especially where to drink your Spritz? A real dilemma to name just one for this island, as you can imagine.
However, we have a particular affection for La Torre at sunset.
If I had known, …
As a good agoraphobic, I would have avoided going to Ibiza in July and August. Otherwise, it’s whenever you want! The majority of restaurants open between mid-April and the end of October. The winter is mild and although it often rains, the spring is pleasant and conducive to hiking. The best season in our opinion is the month of September, with semi-deserted beaches bathed in a still warm sea. And if the dance floor demon takes you one night, there are the famous closing parties in the south of the island at this time of the year.
I would have tried the hike to the insiders-only cove of Es Portixol, nestled in the north of the island, near the village of San Miguel. Here, you will not come across streams of tourists, but only locals and regulars. And for good reason: this cove, which is among the most beautiful in Ibiza, is difficult to access. It can only be reached on foot, by walking a good thirty minutes along the cliff, or by boat, following the steep coast of the island. Walk around a bit more before putting your towel down. Beyond the crescent that forms the tiny bay of Es Portixol, you will discover dozens of small natural pools, carved into the rocks. Sit back and soak your feet in the crystal clear water, heated by the sun. A simple pleasure of which one never tires.
I would not have put my foutah in Cala Salada, but I would have walked along the cliffs lined with pine trees to reach in 5 minutes Cala Saladeta, its little sister where the intense blue of the Mediterranean Sea gives way to a crystal clear turquoise.
After having toured the coves, the great beaches, the alleys of Dalt Villa, the restaurants, the hippie markets and the stores…, I would have toured the bodegas, the organic farms, the hikes and why not the nightclubs! Anyway, see you in 10 years. Or never.
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