Lanzarote
Surprisingly cool
We imagined it disfigured by mass tourism. Error. Not only is Lanzarote brimming with large-scale landscapes of dizzying variety, it boasts beautiful beaches, a renowned surfing scene and great places to stay. Add to that easy access, mild weather all year round and a truly special cultural identity. Lanzarote is the surprisingly cool island.
Such a blessing could have condemned her to suffer the appetites of the kings of the trowel. Fortunately, a genius visionary and all-round artist, César Manrique saved Lanzarote from the concrete, and UNESCO declared the island a Biosphere Reserve. In agreement with the local government, he managed to impose not only the preservation of traditional architecture, but also to prescribe it in all new constructions. The result: small white villages with little concrete development, in symbiosis with dreamy landscapes.
Such a blessing could have condemned her to suffer the appetites of the kings of the trowel. Fortunately, a genius visionary and all-round artist, César Manrique saved Lanzarote from the concrete, and UNESCO declared the island a Biosphere Reserve. In agreement with the local government, he managed to impose not only the preservation of traditional architecture, but also to prescribe it in all new constructions. The result: small white villages with little concrete development, in symbiosis with dreamy landscapes.
The island can be crossed in an hour and a half by car, and the scenery is varied. Pretty beaches to the south, a chain of lunar volcanoes on the east coast, a rich agricultural valley in the center and the sheer cliffs to the north create a new surprise at every turn.
In the midst of all this, exceptional artistic creations, literally melted into Lanzarote’s nature. A visit to Manrique’s major works remains one of the highlights of any exploration of the island.
I will build a paradise on the ruins of hell
had prophesied, in the 1960s, the young avant-garde painter César Manrique, at the end of his New York period. After years of training in Madrid and several residences abroad, he experiences terruño, this irrepressible homesickness, and decides to return home, at 46 years old. What a challenge, while his native island, Lanzarote, looks like a desolate planet, covered, on a third of its surface, by black ashes and terribly abrasive volcanic flows. He will then work all his life to offer it a strong identity and an appropriate influence.
I will build a paradise on the ruins of hell
had prophesied, in the 1960s, the young avant-garde painter César Manrique, at the end of his New York period. After years of training in Madrid and several residences abroad, he experiences terruño, this irrepressible homesickness, and decides to return home, at 46 years old. What a challenge, while his native island, Lanzarote, looks like a desolate planet, covered, on a third of its surface, by black ashes and terribly abrasive volcanic flows. He will then work all his life to offer it a strong identity and an appropriate influence.
On the urban side, Punta Mujeres is a beautiful interlude that has preserved its authenticity, with a warm, local atmosphere. Pretty fishing village with white houses known for its natural pools with transparent waters and surrounded by volcanic rocks. People come here at low tide to enjoy a swim sheltered from the waves, stroll along the waterfront and taste fresh fish.
Teguise, the island’s former capital and more of a village than a town, is also well worth a visit, with its charming little streets, restaurants, large square and Sunday morning market.
In the south-west of the island, El Golfo, a tiny fishing village, is as famous for its Laguna Verde, a natural curiosity, as it is for its fish restaurants. Difficult to make a choice as those by the sea are attractive. Tuna tataki, grilled octopus or the fish of the day accompanied by small potatoes with salt and mojo sauce, a green sauce based on cumin and coriander, are excellent!
Head east to Caleta de Famara, a magnetic spot between the crashing Atlantic rollers and the imposing cliffs, overlooking the small fishing port and a huge sandy beach where surfers from all over the world can be found. 1970s atmosphere, vans park along the dune, surfers change behind their trucks, no tourist infrastructure. The village is one of the Meccas of surfing, with a baba-cool atmosphere where you can enjoy your coffee on the terrace of a bar with your feet in the sand.
It’s impossible to talk about Lanzarote without mentioning its 300 volcanoes, which color the territory black with their fields of dried lava, creating striking lunar landscapes in the famous Timanfaya National Park. Too touristy for our taste, but a grandiose and unique spectacle guaranteed.
Very close to the park, the Valley of La Géria is the wine region. A beautiful paved artery crosses huge lava fields dotted with semi-circles surrounded by stone walls to protect the vines from the wind. Stop at one of the wine estates to taste a Malvasia, the local wine that Falstaff loved. Rather a white besides, they are better.
Original agriculture
What to do about this arid, windy climate (we’re less than 100 km from the African coast)? Innovate. The peasants planted their crops at the bottom of the holes left by the irruptions to protect them from the wind. They quickly realized that under the volcanic ash, things grew very well, and developed a sustainable agriculture that is now a favorite in the island’s restaurants and small organic grocery stores.
Last but not least, the south of the island is home to beautiful beaches (including Papagayo) to be enjoyed without restraint between two excursions. Access is via a long dirt track or by boat from Playa Blanca.
Indissociable from César Manrique, Lanzarote fascinates with spectacular fields of frozen lava, a unique agricultural landscape, an exceptionally mild year-round climate despite its proximity to Africa, breathtaking panoramas and superb beaches. It’s the easy-to-reach sun and culture destination with the promise of nature at its best.
Lanzarote is
58 km long by 34 km wide
Accessibility
Lodging capacity
Animation
Where is Lanzarote located? Lanzarote is one of the 7 islands of the Canary archipelago in the Atlantic Ocean, to the west of Morocco. It is the easternmost island of the archipelago and therefore the closest to the African continent, which is only a hundred kilometers away.
How to get to Lanzarote? The international airport is in Arrecife, the capital of the island. It is also possible to arrive by sea. In this case, we dock by boat at the port of Playa Blanca, from the neighboring island of Fuerteventura.
How to travel on the island ? Renting a vehicle is the best solution to discover Lanzarote freely. We recommend the local company, Cabrera Medina , with its competitive prices and which offers the possibility of returning the vehicle to any agency among the many present on the island. Very practical if you’re moving from one island to another.
Where to sleep and eat? The seaside resorts to avoid are Puerto del Carmen, Playa Blanca, Costa Teguise and Arrecife. Teguise and its surroundings seem to us the ideal central base for exploring the island. There are many infrastructures in Lanzarote including beautiful seasonal rentals. Some of our addresses: Casa de las Flores, in the old village of Teguise. Five guest rooms including an apartment in one of the oldest buildings in town. We can’t tell you more, it was under renovation when we went but already promising. The opening is scheduled for spring 2022. Instagram: @casadelasflores_lanzarote. The Palacio Ico, in the heart of Teguise, has nine rooms including 5 suites. A minimalist decoration but imbued with a lot of refinement. All rooms overlook a patio where breakfast is served on Japanese-style ceramic dishes made on the island. Cactus jam, island ham, homemade cake and granola, freshly squeezed orange juice… a treat to be enjoyed to the sound of classic 1970s music. We love it. Buenavista Lanzarote, five guest rooms located in the center of the island. Lost in the middle of nowhere, a haven of peace to recharge your batteries. A pretty minimalist decor in perfect harmony with the landscape. La Puerta Verde, in Haria. The decor may not look like much, but the dishes are succulent, especially the lentil dish simmered for hours over an open fire. Restaurante El Risco, in La Caleta de Famara.
Small, simple fish restaurant on the seafront, overlooking the island of La Graciosa. Kamezi, a casual gastro in Playa Blanca. Hespérides, not a senior residence despite its name, but a charming restaurant in the heart of Téguise.
The book to pack in your suitcase? Lanzarote by Michel Houellebecq.
The song to include in your playlist? Fleetwood Mac’s Dreams.
And above all, where to drink your Spritz? In the canapés of the Be Papagayooverlooking the beach of the same name. Neat decor and fresh cuisine. Difficult to leave this chiringuito at the end of the day.
If I had known, …
I would have included 2 days/1 night in my schedule to visit the island of La Graciosa north of Lanzarote and its very Jericoacoara atmosphere.
I would have checked beforehand the opening hours of the places of César Manrique. Apart from often closed doors, it would have allowed me to be perhaps also more strategic and thus try to avoid the crowd… Although with “if”…
I would have circumvented my allergy for the Timanfaya Park group bus tours by putting on my hiking boots. It is possible to take great walks in the Parc Naturel des Volcans, just next door. Created in 1987 to extend the protected area, here you can freely walk around the volcanoes, climb them and even descend into the craters.
I would have planned a combined stay with the neighboring but quite distinct island of Fuerteventura, only an hour away by boat.
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