Lanzarote
Surprisingly cool
We imagined it disfigured by mass tourism. Error. Not only is Lanzarote brimming with large-scale landscapes of dizzying variety, it boasts beautiful beaches, a renowned surfing scene and great places to stay. Add to that easy access, mild weather all year round and a truly special cultural identity. Lanzarote is the surprisingly cool island.
Such a blessing could have condemned her to undergo the appetite of the kings of the trowel. Fortunately, a genius visionary and all-round artist, César Manrique saved Lanzarote from the concrete, and UNESCO declared the island a Biosphere Reserve. In agreement with the local government, he managed to impose not only the preservation of traditional architecture, but also to prescribe it in all new constructions. Result: small white villages without too many concrete mixer drifts, in symbiosis with dream landscapes.
Such a blessing could have condemned her to undergo the appetite of the kings of the trowel. Fortunately, a genius visionary and all-round artist, César Manrique saved Lanzarote from the concrete, and UNESCO declared the island a Biosphere Reserve. In agreement with the local government, he managed to impose not only the preservation of traditional architecture, but also to prescribe it in all new constructions. Result: small white villages without too many concrete mixer drifts, in symbiosis with dream landscapes.
If the island can be crossed in an hour and a half by car, the varied landscapes follow one another. Pretty beaches in the south, a chain of lunar volcanoes on the east coast, a rich agricultural valley in the center and steep cliffs in the north create a new surprise at every turn.
In the middle of all this, exceptional artistic creations, literally melted in the nature of Lanzarote. The visit of the great achievements of Manrique remains one of the highlights of the exploration of the island.
I will build a paradise on the ruins of hell
had prophesied, in the 1960s, the young avant-garde painter César Manrique, at the end of his New York period. After years of training in Madrid and several residences abroad, he experiences terruño, this irrepressible homesickness, and decides to return home, at 46 years old. What a challenge, while his native island, Lanzarote, looks like a desolate planet, covered, on a third of its surface, by black ashes and terribly abrasive volcanic flows. He will then work all his life to offer it a strong identity and an appropriate influence.
I will build a paradise on the ruins of hell
had prophesied, in the 1960s, the young avant-garde painter César Manrique, at the end of his New York period. After years of training in Madrid and several residences abroad, he experiences terruño, this irrepressible homesickness, and decides to return home, at 46 years old. What a challenge, while his native island, Lanzarote, looks like a desolate planet, covered, on a third of its surface, by black ashes and terribly abrasive volcanic flows. He will then work all his life to offer it a strong identity and an appropriate influence.
On the urban side, Punta Mujeres is a beautiful parenthesis that has managed to preserve its authenticity, with a local and warm atmosphere. Pretty fishing village with white houses known for its natural pools with transparent waters and surrounded by volcanic rocks.
We come here at low tide to take advantage of a swim sheltered from the waves, to walk on the seafront, and to taste fresh fish.
Teguise, the former capital of the island which looks more like a village than a town, also deserves a visit with its charming little streets, its restaurants, its large square and its market on Sunday mornings.
In the southwest of the island, El Golfo, is a tiny little fishing village as famous for a natural curiosity, the Laguna Verde, as for its fish restaurants. Difficult to make a choice as those by the sea are attractive. Tuna tataki, grilled octopus or the fish of the day accompanied by small salted potatoes and mojo sauce, a green sauce made with cumin and coriander, are excellent!
Head east, for Caleta de Famara, a magnetic place between the breaking rolls of the Atlantic and the imposing cliffs, overlooking the small fishing port and a huge sandy beach where surfers come from all over the world. 1970s atmosphere, vans park along the dune, surfers change behind their trucks, no tourist infrastructure. The village is one of the Meccas of surfing, with a hipster atmosphere where you can have your coffee on the terrace of a bar with your feet in the sand.
Impossible to mention Lanzarote without mentioning its 300 volcanoes coloring the territory black with its fields of dried lava and thus creating striking lunar landscapes in the famous Timanfaya National Park. Too touristy for our taste but spectacular and unique spectacle guaranteed.
Very close to the park, the Valley of La Géria is the wine region. A beautiful paved artery crosses huge lava fields dotted with semi-circles surrounded by stone walls to protect the vines from the wind. Stop at one of the wine estates to taste a Malvasia, the local wine that Falstaff loved. Rather a white besides, they are better.
An original agriculture
What to do with this arid and very windy climate (we are less than 100 km from the African coast)? Innovate. The peasants planted their crops at the bottom of the holes left by the irruptions to protect them from the wind. They then quickly realized that under the volcanic ash, it grew very well and thus developed a sustainable agriculture that the restaurants and small organic grocery stores on the island love.
Finally, it is in the south of the island that the beautiful beaches are found (including that of Papagayo) to be savored without restraint between two excursions. Access is via a long dirt track or by boat from Playa Blanca.
Inseparable from Cesar Manrique, Lanzarote fascinates with spectacular frozen lava fields, a unique agricultural landscape, an exceptionally mild climate all year round despite the proximity of Africa, breathtaking panoramas and superb beaches. It is the easily accessible sun and cultural destination with the promise of spectacular nature.
Lanzarote is
58 km long by 34 km wide
Accessibility
Accommodation capacity
Animation
Where is Lanzarote located? Lanzarote is one of the 7 islands of the Canary archipelago located in the Atlantic Ocean, west of Morocco, it is the easternmost island of the archipelago and therefore the closest to the African continent which is only a hundred kilometers away.
How to get to Lanzarote? The international airport is in Arrecife, the capital of the island. It is also possible to arrive by sea. In this case, we dock by boat at the port of Playa Blanca, coming from the neighboring island of Fuerteventura.
How to travel on the island ? Renting a vehicle is the best solution to discover Lanzarote freely. We recommend the local company, Cabrera Medina , with its competitive prices and which offers the possibility of returning the vehicle to any agency among the many present on the island. Very convenient if you are going from one island to another.
Where to sleep and eat? The seaside resorts to avoid are Puerto del Carmen, Playa Blanca, Costa Teguise and Arrecife. Teguise and its surroundings seem to us the ideal central base for exploring the island. There are many infrastructures in Lanzarote including beautiful seasonal rentals.
Some of our addresses:
Casa de las Flores, in the old village of Teguise. Five guest rooms including an apartment in one of the oldest buildings in town. We can’t tell you more, it was under renovation when we went but already promising. The opening is scheduled for spring 2022. Instagram: @casadelasflores_lanzarote .
The Palacio Ico, in the heart of Teguise, has nine rooms including 5 suites. A minimalist decoration but imbued with a lot of refinement. All rooms overlook a patio where breakfast is served on Japanese-style ceramic dishes made on the island. Cactus jam, island ham, homemade cake and granola, freshly squeezed orange juice… a treat to be enjoyed to the sound of classic 1970s music. We love.
Buenavista Lanzarote, five bed and breakfasts located in the center of the island. Lost in the middle of nowhere, a haven of peace to recharge your batteries. A pretty minimalist decor in perfect harmony with the landscape.
The Puerta Verde, in Haria. If its decor does not look like much, the dishes are delicious, especially the dish based on lentils simmered for hours on the stove.
El Risco restaurant, in La Caleta de Famara. Small, simple fish restaurant on the seafront, with a view of the island of La Graciosa.
Kamezi, a laid-back gastro in Playa Blanca.
Hespérides, not a senior residence despite its name, but a charming restaurant in the heart of Teguise.
The book to take in your suitcase? Lanzarote by Michel Houellebecq.
The song to include in his playlist? Dreams by Fleetwood Mac.
And especially where to drink your Spritz? In the sofas of Be Papagayo, which overlooks the beach of the same name. Neat decor and fresh cuisine. Difficult to leave this chiringuito at the end of the day.
If I had known, …
I would have included 2 days/1 night in my schedule to visit the island of La Graciosa north of Lanzarote and its very Jericoacoara atmosphere.
I would have checked beforehand the opening hours of the places of César Manrique. Apart from often closed doors, it would have allowed me to be perhaps also more strategic and thus try to avoid the crowd… Although with “if”…
I would have circumvented my allergy for the Timanfaya Park group bus tours by putting on my hiking boots. It is possible to take great walks in the Parc Naturel des Volcans, just next door. Created in 1987 to extend the protected area, here you can freely walk around the volcanoes, climb them and even descend into the craters.
I would have planned a stay combined with the neighboring but quite distinct island of Fuerteventura, only one hour away by boat.
Share this island