Lastovo
Naturally reserved
Not often served by ferries, most guides do not mention Lastovo.
Island furthest from the Croatian coast between Split and Dubrovnik, it was enough to sharpen our curiosity.
At the port of Ubli, a small tent from the tourist office explains that the Lastovo archipelago is made up of 46 islets, 46 churches, 46 vineyards and 46 hills over 46km2. Okay…
What is obvious above all when getting off the boat is the ambient calm and silence, almost deafening. It takes a few hours to adapt and gently dive into the languorous rhythm of this island where time seems to stand still.
Not often served by ferries, most guides do not mention Lastovo.
Island furthest from the Croatian coast between Split and Dubrovnik, it was enough to sharpen our curiosity.
At the port of Ubli, a small tent from the tourist office explains that the Lastovo archipelago is made up of 46 islets, 46 churches, 46 vineyards and 46 hills over 46km2. Okay…
What is obvious above all when getting off the boat is the ambient calm and silence, almost deafening. It takes a few hours to adapt and gently dive into the languorous rhythm of this island where time seems to stand still.
There is indeed little traffic on the island and travelers mainly use the 200km paths and small hiking trails maze offered by Lastovo. With the only company of birdsong and the reward of reaching a small secluded cove with divine turquoise waters.
There is indeed little traffic on the island and travelers mainly use the 200km paths and small hiking trails maze offered by Lastovo. With the only company of birdsong and the reward of reaching a small secluded cove with divine turquoise waters.
Lastovo is the only island in Croatia to be declared a nature reserve in its entirety
and is one of the sunniest places on the Adriatic, with 25° from the month of May. For diving enthusiasts, there are 18 sites on the island with mysterious shipwrecks. According to Jacques-Yves Cousteau, oceanographer and expert diver, the waters surrounding Lastovo are the most crystalline in the world.
Lastovo is the only island in Croatia to be declared a nature reserve in its entirety
and is one of the sunniest places on the Adriatic, with 25° from the month of May. For diving enthusiasts, there are 18 sites on the island with mysterious shipwrecks. According to Jacques-Yves Cousteau, oceanographer and expert diver, the waters surrounding Lastovo are the most crystalline in the world.
In Lastovo, the nights are as magical as the days: in the middle of the Adriatic with a sky devoid of any pollution, the island is one of the best spots in Europe
for stargazing.
In Lastovo, the nights are as magical as the days: in the middle of the Adriatic with a sky devoid of any pollution, the island is one of the best spots in Europe
for stargazing.
TO INFINITY AND BEYOND
Anyone who has come here will testify that nowhere else have they seen such a star-flecked night sky. Millions of stars… leaving the observer breathless. Impression confirmed by Slovenian astro-photographers Mikuz Herman and Andrej Mohar who declared that Lastovo benefited from one of the darkest and therefore best skies in Europe for erecting telescopes and other observation points. To further optimize the experience, the island has completely overhauled its urban lighting by reducing the intensity and reorienting its lamps so that the beams shine only towards the ground.
Previously a pirate landmark and then a military base, the island only opened up to tourism
in 1989 and has clearly remained in its original state ever since. In autarky and far from modernity for a long time, it still retains a certain withdrawal into itself.
As proof and quite rare fact for an island, its eponymous village, built in an amphitheater, has its back entirely to the sea. Invisible from there, the village is quite emblematic of the spirit that reigns over Lastovo with its stone houses adorned with typical chimneys, the “fumar”, and its small stepped streets lined with historic residences, unfortunately often in ruins.
Previously a pirate landmark and then a military base, the island only opened up to tourism
in 1989 and has clearly remained in its original state ever since. In autarky and far from modernity for a long time, it still retains a certain withdrawal into itself.
As proof and quite rare fact for an island, its eponymous village, built in an amphitheater, has its back entirely to the sea. Invisible from there, the village is quite emblematic of the spirit that reigns over Lastovo with its stone houses adorned with typical chimneys, the “fumar”, and its small stepped streets lined with historic residences, unfortunately often in ruins.
LASTOVO CHIMNEYS
Dating from the 15th and 16th century, they are all unique. Some even have horns to protect against the “evil eye”! This architectural expression remains a great mystery, no written evidence on this subject having been found to date. Everyone has their own theory. Some say that these strange constructions are related to the strong winds that blow in the region. Many having an appearance reminiscent of minarets, others suggest that a traveler, influenced by the constructions of the Middle East, would have built a first chimney reminiscent of Arab architecture. Charmed by the exotic appearance and as a social demonstration, the inhabitants would then have extended this practice to the rest of the island, competing in creativity.
No matter how much we searched during our stay, we did not find real places where people gather here, whether in the alleys of the village, the small bays or the few restaurants on the island. In the middle of August, we are under the impression of being the only travelers even in the charming residential little bay of Lučica.
In the land of 1001 islands, Lastovo is one in its raw state and off the beaten track. Not fully open to the outside world, it is a paradise for solitude, hiking, astronomy, deserted coves and crystal clear seas lovers.
To live happy, live hidden.
This is still the Lastovo’s motto, even today.
In the land of 1001 islands, Lastovo is one in its raw state and off the beaten track. Not fully open to the outside world, it is a paradise for solitude, hiking, astronomy, deserted coves and crystal clear seas lovers.
To live happy, live hidden.
This is still the Lastovo’s motto, even today.
Lastovo is
9 km long by 5 km wide
Accessibility
Accommodation capacity
Animation
Where is Lastovo located? Lastovo is the furthest island of the Dalmatian Islands, Croatia. It forms with Mljet and Vis islands, the Adriatic Blue Corridor, one of the last remaining paradise oases of biodiversity in the Mediterranean according to WWF.
How to get to Lastovo? Lastovo is equidistant from Dubrovnik and Split. The crossing lasts about 3h20 regardless of the port of embarkation.
How to get around Lastovo? No bus, but you can get around by scooter, car or boat. Rental possible on the port.
Where to sleep and eat in Lastovo? There are very few infrastructures on the island and the few present are quite rustic. However, you will be happy to note that the dozen restaurants on the island mainly serve locally produced food, including lobster, a specialty of Lastovo. They can be found in Pasadur, Zaklopatica and Skrivena Luka bays. In the village there is a supermarket. No shop on the island.
Our favorite addresses:
Konoba Porto Rosso, restaurant in the pretty sunny and open bay of Skrivena Luka.
Konoba Triton, restaurant in the small bay of Zaklopatica. Possibility to rent apartments too.
The Podanje farm, family agritourism in the land.
We stayed at the Augusta Insula hotel which we do not recommend.
The book to take in your suitcase? One Hundred Years of Solitude by Gabriel Garcia Marquez.
The song to include in your playlist? The Great Gig In The Sky by Pink Floyd.
And most importantly, where to drink Spritz? At Caffee bar Kokolo in Pasadur with its unobstructed view of the horizon. Go down near the sofas to admire the sunset waterfront.
If I had known, …
I would have brought my hiking boots to walk the paths of the island and admire Lastovo and its archipelago at 360° from the Heliodrom (also accessible by car…).
I would have taken tons of books and booked a boat trip to the islets of Saplun where the best beaches in the archipelago are located.
I absolutely would have tried a dish “under the Peka/ ispod peke”, the pinnacle of cooking over a real fire and Dalmatian tradition (via a heavy bell and a cast iron lid). This method gives dishes an incredible juicy flavor and a rich aromatic smell that will leave you speechless and will certainly be remembered for a long time. Cooking this type of meal can take 2 to 4 hours, so reservations are essential.
I would have taken a few more days to visit the neighboring islands of Mljet and Vis, which are totally different. Such a shame to be so close and to miss these gems.
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