Levanzo
The pocket island
Levanzo is one of those islands that are whispered about like secrets. The few images we can see of it are so perfect that you’d think it was a pasteboard set. The kind of destination where you think it sounds too good to be honest. Levanzo is nevertheless very real. This 5km² pocket island, the smallest in the Egades archipelago off the coast of Sicily, is a little white and blue jewel set in the rocks overlooking a bay with crystal-clear waters.
Levanzo is one of those islands that are whispered about like secrets. The few images that we see of it seem so perfect that one could believe in a decor of cardboard. The kind of destination where you think it sounds too good to be honest. Levanzo is nevertheless very real. This 5km² pocket island, the smallest in the Egades archipelago off the coast of Sicily, is a little white and blue jewel set in the rocks overlooking a bay with crystal-clear waters.
In Levanzo, as you step off the boat, you’ll come face to face with a cat languishing in the sun and a few elderly people chatting on a bench. The only village on the island consists of around thirty white houses clinging to the hill and a port with tropical waters. The reigning silence is such that you want to whisper while walking around so as not to disturb the tranquility of its 80 inhabitants. The island exudes serenity and seems to belong to another world where life moves (very) slowly.
In Levanzo, you will come face to face, as you get off the boat, with a languid cat in the sun and a few old people chatting on a bench. The only village on the island consists of around thirty white houses clinging to the hill and a port with tropical waters. The reigning silence is such that you want to whisper while walking around so as not to disturb the tranquility of its 80 inhabitants. The island breathes serenity and seems to belong to another world where life flows (very) slowly.
Levanzo is ideal for lovers of dolce farniente “the sweetness of doing nothing”. Perfect for those who love slow-life vacations, who want to disconnect, peace and quiet in an idyllic setting. Tourists rarely stop there, or only for the day. We supposedly quickly made the rounds, “there is not much”. However, it is precisely this supposed nothing that the island invites us to explore.
Levanzo is ideal for lovers of dolce farniente “the sweetness of doing nothing”. Perfect for those who love slow-life vacations, who want to disconnect, peace and quiet in an idyllic setting. Tourists rarely stop there, or only for the day. We supposedly quickly made the rounds, “there is not much”. However, it is precisely this supposed nothing that the island invites us to explore.
GROTTA DEL GENOVESE
The island, forbidden to vehicles, is covered with hills and bordered by steep rocky coasts where many prehistoric caves are hidden, in particular the Grotta del genovese. Unique in Italy, rivaling Altamira and Lascaux, this cave brings together Upper Paleolithic incisions and Upper Neolithic paintings. Magic to think that we are faced with a testimony left there more than 12,000 years ago. The grace of certain animal figures is admirable and we say to ourselves that the search for beauty that animated our distant ancestors brings us together beyond the millennia. The cave, which can be visited from March to November, is accessible either by sea or by a small path on the mountainside (with good shoes).
The island, forbidden to vehicles, is covered with hills and bordered by steep rocky coasts where many prehistoric caves are hidden, in particular the Grotta del genovese. Unique in Italy, rivaling Altamira and Lascaux, this cave brings together Upper Paleolithic incisions and Upper Neolithic paintings. Magic to think that we are faced with a testimony left there more than 12,000 years ago. The grace of certain animal figures is admirable and we say to ourselves that the search for beauty that animated our distant ancestors brings us together beyond the millennia. The cave, which can be visited from March to November, is accessible either by sea or by a small path on the mountainside (with good shoes).
Thanks to its small size, it’s easy to get to the island’s various beaches in just a few minutes by following the beautiful coastal paths. Depending on the season, you can swim in the creeks that dot the coast, or walk among the agaves and pines towards the lighthouse or Mount Pellegrino. A 20-minute walk from the port, cala Minnola is a superb cove, surrounded by a pine forest. Perfect for a swim, a siesta or a picnic in the shade, as well as for exploring the reserve’s seabed, with wrecks of ancient Roman galleons in the distance.
Thanks to its small size, it’s easy to get to the island’s various beaches in just a few minutes by following the beautiful coastal paths. Depending on the season, you can swim in the creeks that dot the coast, or walk among the agaves and pines towards the lighthouse or Mount Pellegrino. A 20-minute walk from the port, cala Minnola is a superb cove, surrounded by a pine forest. Perfect for a swim, a siesta or a picnic in the shade, as well as for exploring the reserve’s seabed, with wrecks of ancient Roman galleons in the distance.
2000 YEARS UNDER THE SEA
2000 YEARS UNDER THE SEA
In Levanzo, history has also left its mark under the sea. Cala Minnola is the site of the Battle of the Egades in 241 BC. The Romans defeated the Carthaginians, putting an end to the First Punic War. Today, the ship’s rostrum and the crew’s helmets and swords are housed in Favignana’s archaeological museum. In Levanzo, on the other hand, you can visit a unique underwater archaeological site. Giant amphorae have been found in the same place, 40 meters off the coast. They were used to transport salted fish and, above all, garum (a fish paste highly prized in Roman times) from the nearby settlement.
In Levanzo, history has also left its mark under the sea. Cala Minnola is the site of the Battle of the Egades in 241 BC. The Romans defeated the Carthaginians, putting an end to the First Punic War. Today, the ship’s rostrum and the crew’s helmets and swords are housed in Favignana’s archaeological museum. In Levanzo, on the other hand, you can visit a unique underwater archaeological site. Giant amphorae have been found in the same place, 40 meters off the coast. They were used to transport salted fish and, above all, “garum” (a fish paste much appreciated in Roman times) from the nearby settlement.
In contrast, on the west coast, cala Faraglione offers a totally different spectacle. Very mineral, this creek is a clever mix of strength and softness, especially at sunset. The path leading to it is delightful and enjoys a hypnotic view of the neighboring island of Favignana .
At the end of the day, the Tout-Levanzo finds himself with his family in the village. We stroll on the seafront then we have an aperitivo at the café which overlooks the port. It is the ideal place to sympathize with the inhabitants and the families of Palermo in secondary residence, while observing the departure of the few tourists who have come for the day. A Spritz in hand and with the feeling of intense privilege that emerges from this haven of peace. The soft colors and the poetry of the sunset will do the rest.
At the end of the day, the Tout-Levanzo finds himself with his family in the village. We stroll on the seafront then we have an aperitivo at the café which overlooks the port. It is the ideal place to sympathize with the inhabitants and the families of Palermo in secondary residence, while observing the departure of the few tourists who have come for the day. A Spritz in hand and with the feeling of intense privilege that emerges from this haven of peace. The soft colors and the poetry of the sunset will do the rest.
At Levanzo, there’s no need for a lot of activity. The island is a delight in itself and little by little, life in the village takes precedence over its own habits: the meeting with Paolo’s fresh fish, the walks in search of wild asparagus, the evening aperitif at Mr Campo’s bakery, swimming at night, music at the port. And then you get hooked, and two days just aren’t enough…
Levanzo is
3 km long by 2 km wide
Accessibility
Lodging capacity
Animation
Where is Levanzo located? Levanzo is the smallest of the 3 islands constituting with Favignana and Marettimo , the archipelago of the Egadi, in the North-West of Sicily. Much less known to the general public than its Aeolian neighbour, this archipelago is mainly frequented by “mainland” Sicilians.
How to get to Levanzo? 1 hour’s drive from Palermo, followed by a 20-minute by hydrofoil from Trapani. To be booked in advance.
How to travel on the island ? Levanzo is closed to vehicles (there is no road on Levanzo anyway). We therefore move on foot, by bike, or by boat.
Where to sleep and eat? In Levanzo, there are two bars/restaurants, a bakery/extra grocery store, and a souvenir shop. That’s it! The island has 3 small hotels and some seasonal rentals. Nice addresses I’ve spotted (but not tested!): Dolcevita Egadi ResortL’Isola Residence
The book to pack in your suitcase? Thierry Paquot’s L’art de la sieste.
The song to include in your playlist? L’isola che non c’è by Edoardo Bennato.
And above all, where to drink your Spritz? As you can see, there’s no Cornelian dilemma here: having tried both, our recommendation is the delicious bar Romano on the left, facing the port.
If I had known, …
I would have booked my accommodation well in advance, places being limited and very popular. February is already spring on Levanzo :)
I would have booked a visit to the cave on their website unless I only wanted to see it through the entrance gate.
I would have taken a few more days to visit the nearby islands of Favignana and Marettimo.
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