Texel
Nature at its best
Texel, the largest of the 5 Dutch islands in the Wadden Sea, is just 1 hour 30 minutes from Amsterdam.
Popular with sun-seeking Dutch and German travelers (Texel is one of the sunniest regions in the Netherlands), it’s a breath of fresh air that’s easy to reach.
More than a quarter of the island has been set aside as a nature reserve, the Dunes National Park.
Criss-crossed by a multitude of hiking and cycling trails, interspersed with plains, dunes, small lakes and sparse, sometimes dense vegetation where wild horses can be spotted, this scenery sometimes resembles Mongolian steppes.
From the ferry, although you can already see the green contours of the island, it’s impossible to guess Texel’s treasures, especially the 30km long beach that runs along the western side of the island.
The Wadden Sea
A Unesco World Heritage Biosphere Reserve, the Wadden Sea is the world’s largest uninterrupted system of mudflats and tidal sandbanks. A multitude of transitional habitats can be found here, and the area is home to many species of plants and animals, including marine mammals such as seals, grey seals and porpoises. The 50 or so Wadden Islands form a sort of protective buffer between the North Sea and the Wadden region. The islands are constantly on the move: they “walk” slowly from west to east. On the eastern side, larger and larger sandbanks are formed, creating more land, while on the western side, part of the island disappears into the sea.
Enjoy long, invigorating strolls, stopping regularly at the various beach bars known as strandpaviljoen, at any time of day.
These are not simple straw huts, but cosy, well-decorated living spaces.
The island’s coastline is raw, with verdigris vegetation and the distinctive luminosity of northern skies when the sun filters through their clouds.
In the extreme south of the island, the landscape becomes lunar.
As far as the eye can see, the white sand, as fine as flour, dazzles even when the weather is gloomy.
The cold, metallic light here is splendid.
One of the specialties of Northern France’s beaches is the beach hut.
They’ve been part of the seaside’s charm since the birth of seaside resorts in the 19th century.
At the time, the modesty of bathers was such that it was necessary to create a space between the private and the public in order to change clothes out of sight.
At Texel, the photogenic cabins have become a veritable art of living.
Beach bashers
Beach robbers and strandjutters are still active all along the Dutch coast. At the Flora Museum between Den Burg and De Koog, beach robber Jan Uitgeest and his team present what they have found on Texel’s beaches over the last few decades: countless beacons, shoes, bottles (with or without messages), toys and animal bones.
Beach bashers
Beach robbers and strandjutters are still active all along the Dutch coast. At the Flora Museum between Den Burg and De Koog, beach robber Jan Uitgeest and his team present what they have found on Texel’s beaches over the last few decades: countless beacons, shoes, bottles (with or without messages), toys and animal bones.
The inland is completely flat, with a succession of vast agricultural plains where the occasional thatched barn or windmill punctuates the landscape.
The island still lives on its traditional activities: sheep farming (there are more sheep on the island than inhabitants!), fishing, horticulture….
The island has seven villages, the most important of which is Den Burg.
This is where the hustle and bustle is concentrated, and that’s putting it mildly ☺ Its alleyways reflect the usual sobriety of Dutch architecture.
Settled in their manicured gardens, residents regularly hold impromptu garage sales in front of their doors.
All the red brick facades look like doll’s houses.
They are overflowing with flowers, plants and inviting benches.
You won’t fall under Texel’s spell as soon as you step off the ferry or along the long road that crosses it.
It’s an island that deserves time and curiosity.
Relatively cool in midsummer, it’s a breath of fresh air for lovers of wide open spaces, peace and quiet, and cycling.
Texel offers itself to those who want to understand it, with only one certainty: yes, it deserves to be seen!
Texel is
25 km long by 10 km wide
Accessibility
Lodging capacity
Animation
Where is Texel located? Texel is a Dutch island in the North Sea, separated from the mainland by the Wadden Sea.
It is the largest, most populous and westernmost of the Friesian archipelago, which extends into Denmark.
How to get to Texel The ferry crossing from the port of Den Helder takes around 20 minutes.
Cars are accepted.
A train connects Den Helder and Amsterdam Centraal stations in 1h15.
Bus No. 33, just outside Den Helder station, takes 10 minutes to the port.
The boat timetables are mostly aligned with those of the trains.
So much for flawless organization!
How to travel on the island ? All vehicles are allowed on the island.
With over 135 km of cycle paths (accessible to bikes and scooters), you can discover sites that are inaccessible by car, with some fun themed itineraries: the Tasty Tour for gourmets, the Geheimen route for those who want to discover Texel’s hidden corners, or the Jan Wolkers route which follows in the footsteps of the Dutch writer who fell in love with the island.
If you don’t have your own means of transport, don’t worry: there are plenty of rental companies on the island as soon as you leave the ferry, with the option of dropping them off at your place of residence.
Where to sleep and eat? We avoid the village center of De Koog, a seaside resort crowded with fast-food outlets, souvenir stores and insipid breweries.
The area around De Koog is pleasant, however, with quick access to the large beach.
The village of Den Burg is the liveliest, with its main square, garden and shopping streets.
The other villages on the island are smaller and have virtually no shops. Here are a few nice addresses I’ve spotted (but not all of which I’ve tested!): Buytenplaatslarge villas for rent in the center of the island
Vakantiehuis Heidehofa large villa near Den Hoorn
Op Oostboutique hotel with a dozen rooms and an excellent restaurant.
Just Texelsome suites in Den Burg Landhuis Noorderhaecksstudios, lofts, suites and apartments in the south of France
Texel suites3 suites in the village of Oudeschild
BOSQa casual gastro in Den Horn
Lokaal 16for a healthy lunch in Den Burg, patio terrace
Verwennerij Bij Jef, the island’s star restaurant Het Schoutenhuysthe typical brewery in the village of Den Burg
The book to pack in your suitcase? Jan Wolkers’ sultry Turkish Delight, adapted into a film in 1974 by Paul Verhoeven.
The song to include in your playlist? Here But I’m Gone by Curtis Mayfield.
And above all, where to drink your Spritz? At Gastro Pavillion XVon the beach at Paal 15.
A very pleasant beach restaurant with a large terrace and a cosy lounge with an indoor fireplace for cooler evenings.
If I had known, …
I would have revised my few words of Dutch… and German.
German is much more common here than English.
Ya wohl!
I would have planned a day or more on the nearby island of Vlieland with the De Vriendschapa flat-bottomed boat typical of the Wadden Sea.
So, yes, the 6 a.m. departure stings a lot, but it’s clearly worth it.
On the program: a magical sunrise and sunset over Texel, seal watching on the sandbanks and a tasting of the local alcohol Jutter on the deck of the boat on the way back.
I would have tested the Texel style spa: the woolbath ! Half an hour of relaxation completely wrapped in sheep’s wool.
A unique experience and surprising effects guaranteed.
I would have picked my own fruit, vegetables and flowers in the fields of one of the island’s farms like this onethis one.
I would have tasted locally produced specialties: Skuumkoppe brewed beer, award-winning cheese, Texel lamb with a slightly salty flavor, chocolate, ice cream and the famous Jutter liqueur.
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