Vis
Croatia’s best kept secret
There floats a scent of Dolce Vita with its pedestrian villages stretching along the sea,
its narrow streets lined with carefully renovated Palazzos, its small squares and its long promenade where families gather at dusk. There is also a soft bohemian flavor with its relaxed atmosphere and its restaurants with arty decor and contemporary cuisine.
Welcome to the island of Vis, the country’s best kept secret.
There floats a scent of Dolce Vita with its pedestrian villages that stretch along the sea, its narrow streets lined with carefully renovated Palazzos, its small squares and its long promenade where families meet at dusk. There is also a soft bohemian flavor with its relaxed atmosphere and its restaurants with arty decor and contemporary cuisine.
Welcome to the island of Vis, the country’s best kept secret.
URBAN LEGENDS
The oldest Croatian town, Vis is a jewel of history and cultural heritage. The island was inhabited from Neolithic times, then by the Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Austro-Hungarians, British and French. All these peoples have left their mark on the way of life, the style of construction, the beliefs. Besides the stories of the ancient past and the monuments, you will also hear interesting stories from the near past. It was in Vis, in a cave on Mount Hum where Tito had established his headquarters, that he is said to have made his legendary declaration “We don’t want what belongs to others, but neither will we give them what which belongs to us”. While discovering the many vestiges of the past on the island, listen carefully to the murmurs of the inhabitants…
Urban legends
The oldest Croatian town, Vis is a jewel of history and cultural heritage. The island was inhabited from Neolithic times, then by the Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Austro-Hungarians, British and French. All these peoples have left their mark on the way of life, the style of construction, the beliefs. Besides the stories of the ancient past and the monuments, you will also hear interesting stories from the near past. It was in Vis, in a cave on Mount Hum where Tito had established his headquarters, that he is said to have made his legendary declaration “We don’t want what belongs to others, but neither will we give them what which belongs to us”. While discovering the many vestiges of the past on the island, listen carefully to the murmurs of the inhabitants…
Under Venetian domination for 4 centuries and then closed to tourism for a long time by a military glacis, the westernmost of the Dalmatian islands is a marvel. Uncrowded and refined, this land full of humility is the favorite destination of Croats.
We quickly understood why, its charm being so irresistible.
Vis stands out from the Dalmatian islands by its fiercely preserved authenticity
and its bucolic landscapes with generous nature. It has the charm of these small islands which take advantage of the relative remoteness of the mainland and which thus retain their identity and their nonchalant rhythm.
Vis stands out from the Dalmatian islands by its fiercely preserved authenticity and its bucolic landscapes with generous nature. It has the charm of these small islands which take advantage of the relative remoteness of the mainland and which thus retain their identity and their nonchalant rhythm.
The reputation of the fishermen of Vis is well established, especially those of the village
medieval village of Komiža, often considered the birthplace of fishing in the Adriatic.
Although the island is gradually opening up to travellers, these years of isolation have anchored strong traditional values and allowed the inhabitants to tame their lands. So much so that organic farming and viticulture no longer hold any secrets for them. Produced in small quantities, the nectars are tasted among initiates in the wine bars and the various taverns of the island.
The reputation of Vis fishermen is well established, especially those from the medieval village of Komiža , often considered the cradle of fishing in the Adriatic.
Although the island is gradually opening up to travellers, these years of isolation have anchored strong traditional values and allowed the inhabitants to tame their lands. So much so, that organic farming and viticulture no longer hold any secrets for them. Produced in small quantities, the nectars are tasted among initiates in the wine bars and the various taverns of the island.
Taste the vugava
The vines mark the terraced landscapes over some 700 hectares and the wine festival in Vis confirms the importance of viticulture since antiquity.
Whether you like this drink or not, the discovery of vineyards and the visit of cellars like the very famous one of Lipanović seem obvious, as viticulture permeates the identity of the island.
One of the Croatian dry white wines not to be missed is the Vugava , which is enjoyed in the restaurants of Vis or Komiza as an accompaniment to dishes of molluscs or grilled fresh fish or seafood pasta.
It can also be savored with some artisanal cheeses and the Dalmatian ham Prsut , slightly smoked which, however, goes better with the other wine produced on the island of Vis: the red wine Leplavac .
The vines mark the terraced landscapes over some 700 hectares and the wine festival in Vis confirms the importance of viticulture since antiquity.
Whether you like this drink or not, the discovery of vineyards and the visit of cellars like the very famous one of Lipanović seem obvious, as viticulture permeates the identity of the island.
One of the Croatian dry white wines not to be missed is the Vugava , which is enjoyed in the restaurants of Vis or Komiza as an accompaniment to dishes of molluscs or grilled fresh fish or seafood pasta.
It can also be savored with some artisanal cheeses and the Dalmatian ham Prsut , slightly smoked which, however, goes better with the other wine produced on the island of Vis: the red wine Leplavac .
The lifting of the ban, after the independence of Croatia, opened up this little paradise
and its inhabitants, well aware of their treasure, fiercely preserve the state of mind
of an island with a generous nature and its constant need for preservation.
Thanks to them, the island still exudes serenity, well-being and the sweetness of life.
The lifting of the ban, after the independence of Croatia, opened up this little paradise and its inhabitants, well aware of their treasure, fiercely preserve the state of mind of an island with generous nature and its constant need of preservation. Thanks to them, the island still exudes serenity, well-being and the sweetness of life.
In Vis, there are more than 100 micro-beaches, many of which are kept secret by the locals.
They have no desire to suffer the tourist attraction of neighboring islands and thus divert day travelers either to the famous Stiniva Beach or to the Blue Grotto on the neighboring island of Bisevo.
Vis has some of the most beautiful beaches in Croatia, including several sandy beaches,
quite rare in Dalmatia. We can cite those of Grandovac, Stoncica, Milna, Zaglav and Vela Smokova. Naturism is widely practiced on the island.
Vis has some of the most beautiful beaches in Croatia, including several sandy beaches, quite rare in Dalmatia. We can cite those of Grandovac, Stoncica, Milna, Zaglav and Vela Smokova. Naturism is widely practiced on the island.
Vis, one of Croatia’s prettiest and well-preserved islands, has lived away from tourist eyes
for many years and intends to protect its extra soul.
Here, no show off, the only queens are authenticity, serenity, discretion and gastronomy.
As dear Georges would say: “what else?”
Live it is
13 km long by 8 km wide
Accessibility
Accommodation capacity
Animation
Where is Vis located? Vis is in Dalmatia, off Split in Croatia. It forms with Mljet and Lastovo islands,
the Adriatic Blue Corridor, one of the last remaining paradise oases of biodiversity in the Mediterranean according to WWF.
Where is Vis located? Vis is in Dalmatia, off Split in Croatia. It constitutes with the islands of Mljet and Lastovo , the Adriatic Blue Corridor, one of the last remaining paradise oases of biodiversity in the Mediterranean according to WWF.
How to get to Vis? 1h30 crossing by catamaran from the port of Split.
How to travel on the island ? Vis is very easy to navigate with its two unique routes: the coast road
and the interior road. Only 10 km separate the 2 villages of the island, Komiza and Vis, with many hiking trails accessible to beginner walkers. Bicycle, car, scooter and boat rental companies are in the port of Vis.
How to travel on the island ? Vis is very easy to navigate with its two unique routes (coast route and inland route). Only 10 km separate the 2 villages of the island, Komiza and Vis, with many hiking trails accessible to beginner walkers. Many bicycle, car, scooter and boat rental companies are otherwise in the port of Vis.
Where to sleep and eat? In the 2 villages of the island where we find the majority of the infrastructures (the rest of the island is rural). Komiza is the authentic fishing village with an intimate and working-class atmosphere, with narrow medieval streets and waterfront houses dating from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The village of Vis is more aristocratic and airy with its charming Palazzos, lively with its small squares, its delicious restaurants as well as its open-air cinema at the water’s edge.
There is plenty of choice on the island when it comes to accommodations, bars and restaurants.
Here are some of our favorite addresses:
- House Bava, a very nicely restored Dalmatian stone house in the heart of Vis.
- Hotel San Giorgio, one of the few hotels on the island. Magical place in a small alley of Vis with a very nice patio and a very warm welcome.
- Lola Konoba & bar, here everything is just perfect from the welcome to the cuisine, including the decor and the service. In the heart of Vis.
- Konoba Senko, the hidden restaurant on Croatia’s best kept secret island. Totally unusual address in Mala Travna that does not appear on any register. A real lunchtime experience.
- Fort George, inside the fort with a magnificent terrace. On the heights, behind the village of Vis.
- Lambik bar & bistro as nice at breakfast to feel the city slowly waking up, as for lunch in the shade or dinner followed by a live outdoor concert and a great atmosphere.
- Coppa, wine bar with delicious boards of local products in the heart of the alleys of Komiza.
Where to sleep and eat? In the 2 villages of the island where we find the majority of the infrastructures (the rest of the island is rural). Komiza is the authentic fishing village with an intimate and working-class atmosphere, with narrow medieval streets and waterfront houses dating from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The village of Vis is more aristocratic and airy with its charming Palazzos, lively with its small squares, its delicious restaurants as well as its open-air cinema at the water’s edge.
There is plenty of choice on the island when it comes to accommodations, bars and restaurants.
Here are some of our favorite addresses:
- House Bava, a very nicely restored Dalmatian stone house in the heart of Vis.
- Hotel San Giorgio, one of the few hotels on the island. Magical place in a small alley of Vis with a very nice patio and a very warm welcome.
- Lola Konoba & bar, here everything is just perfect from the welcome to the cuisine, including the decor and the service. In the heart of Vis.
- Konoba Senko, the hidden restaurant on Croatia’s best kept secret island. Totally unusual address in Mala Travna that does not appear on any register. A real lunchtime experience.
- Fort George, inside the fort with a magnificent terrace. On the heights, behind the village of Vis.
- Lambik bar & bistro as nice at breakfast to feel the city slowly waking up, as for lunch in the shade or dinner followed by a live outdoor concert and a great atmosphere.
- Coppa, wine bar with delicious boards of local products in the heart of the alleys of Komiza.
The book to take in your suitcase? The first sip of beer and other tiny pleasures of Philippe Delerm.
The song to include in your playlist? Just ain’t gonna work out by Mayer Hawthorne.
And most importantly, where to drink Spritz? Lots of very cool options on the island, our preference
will be at Bistro Futarija, in Vis. Go down to the benches near the water to enjoy the sunset.
And most importantly, where to drink Spritz? Lots of very cool options on the island, our preference will be Bistro Futarija, in Vis. Go down to the benches near the water to enjoy the sunset.
If I had known, …
I would have booked my accommodation for summer holidays well in advance. On the 1st weekend of August, almost all the accommodations are taken to attend the great fishermen’s festival of Komiza.
I absolutely would have tried a dish “ under the Peka/ispod peke ”, the pinnacle of cooking over a real fire and Dalmatian tradition (via a heavy bell and a cast iron lid). This method gives dishes an incredible juicy flavor and a rich aromatic smell that will leave you speechless and will certainly be remembered for a long time. Cooking this type of meal can take 2 to 4 hours, so reservations are essential. The best peka will be found in agritourism restaurants in the center of the island such as Roki’s, Kod Magica or Belotovo.
I would have taken the small path that runs along the coast behind the restaurant on Stoncica beach to access a charming residential micro-bay and its natural swimming pool.
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