Vis

The secret

There’s a touch of Dolce Vita here, with pedestrian villages stretching along the sea,
lined with lovingly renovated palazzos, small squares and a long promenade where families gather at dusk. There is also a soft bohemian flavor with its relaxed atmosphere and its restaurants with arty decor and contemporary cuisine.
Welcome to the island of Vis in Croatia, the country’s best-kept secret.

There floats a scent of Dolce Vita with its pedestrian villages that stretch along the sea, its narrow streets lined with carefully renovated Palazzos, its small squares and its long promenade where families meet at dusk. There is also a soft bohemian flavor with its relaxed atmosphere and its restaurants with arty decor and contemporary cuisine.
Welcome to the island of Vis in Croatia, the country’s best-kept secret.

URBAN LEGENDS

The oldest Croatian town, Vis is a jewel of history and cultural heritage. The island was inhabited from Neolithic times, then by the Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Austro-Hungarians, British and French. All these peoples have left their mark on the way of life, the style of construction, the beliefs. Besides the stories of the ancient past and the monuments, you will also hear interesting stories from the near past. It was in Vis, in a cave on Mount Hum where Tito had established his headquarters, that he is said to have made his legendary declaration “We don’t want what belongs to others, but neither will we give them what which belongs to us”. While discovering the many vestiges of the past on the island, listen carefully to the murmurs of the inhabitants…

Urban legends

The oldest Croatian town, Vis is a jewel of history and cultural heritage. The island was inhabited from Neolithic times, then by the Illyrians, Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Austro-Hungarians, British and French. All these peoples have left their mark on the way of life, the style of construction, the beliefs. Besides the stories of the ancient past and the monuments, you will also hear interesting stories from the near past. It was in Vis, in a cave on Mount Hum where Tito had established his headquarters, that he is said to have made his legendary declaration “We don’t want what belongs to others, but neither will we give them what which belongs to us”. While discovering the many vestiges of the past on the island, listen carefully to the murmurs of the inhabitants…

Under Venetian domination for 4 centuries and then closed to tourism for a long time by a military glacis, the westernmost of the Dalmatian islands is a marvel. Uncrowded and refined, this land full of humility is the favorite destination of Croats. We quickly understand why its charm is so irresistible.

Vis stands out among the Dalmatian islands for its fiercely preserved authenticity
and its bucolic landscapes of generous nature. It has the charm of these small islands which take advantage of the relative remoteness of the mainland and which thus retain their identity and their nonchalant rhythm.

Vis stands out from the Dalmatian islands by its fiercely preserved authenticity and its bucolic landscapes with generous nature. It has the charm of these small islands which take advantage of the relative remoteness of the mainland and which thus retain their identity and their nonchalant rhythm.

The reputation of Vis’s fishermen is well established, especially in the medieval village of Komiža, often considered the cradle of fishing in the Adriatic.
While the island is gradually opening up to travelers, these years of isolation have anchored strong traditional values and enabled the inhabitants to tame their land. So much so that organic farming and viticulture no longer hold any secrets for them. Produced in small quantities, the nectars are tasted among initiates in the wine bars and the various taverns of the island.

The reputation of Vis’s fishermen is well established, especially those from the medieval village of Komiža, often considered the cradle of fishing in the Adriatic.
While the island is gradually opening up to travelers, these years of isolation have anchored strong traditional values and enabled the inhabitants to tame their land. So much so that organic farming and viticulture no longer hold any secrets for them. Produced in small quantities, the nectars are tasted among initiates in the wine bars and the various taverns of the island.

Taste the vugava

The vines mark the terraced landscapes over some 700 hectares and the wine festival in Vis confirms the importance of viticulture since antiquity.
Whether you like this drink or not, the discovery of vineyards and the visit of cellars like the very famous one of Lipanović seem obvious, as viticulture permeates the identity of the island.
One of the Croatian dry white wines not to be missed is the Vugava , which is enjoyed in the restaurants of Vis or Komiza as an accompaniment to dishes of molluscs or grilled fresh fish or seafood pasta.
It can also be savored with some artisanal cheeses and the Dalmatian ham Prsut , slightly smoked which, however, goes better with the other wine produced on the island of Vis: the red wine Leplavac .

The lifting of the ban, following Croatia’s independence, opened up this little paradise
and its inhabitants, well aware of their treasure, fiercely preserve the state of mind
of an island with generous nature and a constant need for preservation.
Thanks to them, the island still exudes serenity, well-being and a gentle way of life.

The lifting of the ban, after the independence of Croatia, opened up this little paradise and its inhabitants, well aware of their treasure, fiercely preserve the state of mind of an island with generous nature and its constant need of preservation. Thanks to them, the island still exudes serenity, well-being and the sweetness of life.

In Vis, there are over 100 micro-beaches, many of which are kept secret by the locals.
They have no desire to suffer the tourist attraction of the neighboring islands, and so divert day-trippers to either the famous Stiniva beach or the blue grotto on the nearby island of Bisevo.

Vis boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in Croatia, including several sandy beaches,
a rarity in Dalmatia. We can cite those of Grandovac, Stoncica, Milna, Zaglav, Vela Smokova . Naturism is widely practiced on the island.

Vis has some of the most beautiful beaches in Croatia, including several sandy beaches, quite rare in Dalmatia. We can cite those of Grandovac, Stoncica, Milna, Zaglav, Vela Smokova . Naturism is widely practiced on the island.

Vis, one of Croatia’s prettiest and best-preserved islands, has lived away from the glare of tourism for many years, and is determined to protect its extra soul.
There’s no show off here, the only queens are authenticity, serenity, discretion and gastronomy. As dear Georges would say, what else?

Live it is

13 km long by 8 km wide

Accessibility

Lodging capacity

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Where is Vis located? Vis is in Dalmatia, off Split in Croatia. Together with the islands
of Mljet and Lastovo the Adriatic Blue Corridor, one of the last remaining paradise oases of biodiversity in the Mediterranean, according to WWF.

Where is Vis located? Vis is in Dalmatia, off Split in Croatia. It constitutes with the islands of Mljet and Lastovo , the Adriatic Blue Corridor, one of the last remaining paradise oases of biodiversity in the Mediterranean according to WWF.

How to get to Vis? 1h30 crossing by catamaran from the port of Split.

Getting around the island Vis is very easy to get around, with only two roads
(the coast road and the inland road). Only 10 km separate the island’s 2 villages, Komiza and Vis, with numerous hiking trails accessible to beginners. Numerous bike, car, scooter and boat rental companies are otherwise located at Vis harbor.

How to travel on the island ? Vis is very easy to navigate with its two unique routes (coast route and inland route). Only 10 km separate the 2 villages of the island, Komiza and Vis, with many hiking trails accessible to beginner walkers. Many bicycle, car, scooter and boat rental companies are otherwise in the port of Vis.

Where to sleep and eat? In the two villages on the island where you’ll find most of the infrastructure
(the rest of the island is rural). Komiza is the authentic fishing village with an intimate and working-class atmosphere, with narrow medieval streets and waterfront houses dating from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The village of Vis is more aristocratic and airy with its charming Palazzos, lively with its small squares, its delicious restaurants as well as its open-air cinema at the water’s edge.
There is plenty of choice on the island both in terms of accommodation and restaurants.
Here are some of our favorite addresses:

House BavaA beautifully restored Dalmatian stone house in the heart of the old town of Vis.
Hotel San Giorgioone of the island’s few hotels. Magical place in a small alley of Vis with a very nice patio and a very warm welcome.
Lola Konoba & barEverything here is just perfect, from the welcome to the food, from the decor to the service. In the heart of Vis.
Konoba Senko the hidden restaurant on Croatia’s most secret island. A totally unusual address in Mala Travna that’s not on any register. A true lunchtime experience.
Fort Georgein the fort’s grounds with magnificent terrace. On the heights, behind the village of Vis.
Lambik bar & bistro as nice for breakfast as it is for lunch in the shade or dinner, followed by a live outdoor concert and a great atmosphere.
Coppaa wine bar serving delicious local produce in the heart of Komiza’s alleyways.

Where to sleep and eat? In the 2 villages of the island where we find the majority of the infrastructures (the rest of the island is rural). Komiza is the authentic fishing village with an intimate and working-class atmosphere, with narrow medieval streets and waterfront houses dating from the 17th and 18th centuries.
The village of Vis is more aristocratic and airy with its charming Palazzos, lively with its small squares, its delicious restaurants as well as its open-air cinema at the water’s edge.
There is plenty of choice on the island both in terms of accommodation and restaurants.
Here are some of our favorite addresses:

House BavaA beautifully restored Dalmatian stone house in the heart of the old town of Vis.
Hotel San Giorgioone of the island’s few hotels. Magical place in a small alley of Vis with a very nice patio and a very warm welcome.
Lola Konoba & barEverything here is just perfect, from the welcome to the food, from the decor to the service. In the heart of Vis.
Konoba Senko the hidden restaurant on Croatia’s most secret island. A totally unusual address in Mala Travna that’s not on any register. A true lunchtime experience.
Fort Georgein the fort’s grounds with magnificent terrace. On the heights, behind the village of Vis.
Lambik bar & bistro as nice for breakfast as it is for lunch in the shade or dinner, followed by a live outdoor concert and a great atmosphere.
Coppaa wine bar serving delicious local produce in the heart of Komiza’s alleyways.

The book to take in your suitcase? The first sip of beer and other tiny pleasures of Philippe Delerm.

The song to include in his playlist? Just ain’t gonna work out by Mayer Hawthorne.

And above all, where to drink your Spritz? There are lots of great options on the island, but our preference is
. Bistro Futarijain Vis. Go down to the benches near the water to enjoy the sunset.

And above all, where to drink your Spritz? There are lots of great options on the island, but we prefer the Bistro Futarijain Vis. Go down to the benches near the water to enjoy the sunset.

If I had known, …

I would have booked my accommodation for the end of July/beginning of August well in advance. On the 1st weekend of August, almost all the accommodations are taken by storm to attend the great fishermen’s festival of Komiza.

I absolutely would have tried a dish “ under the Peka/ispod peke ”, the pinnacle of cooking over a real fire and Dalmatian tradition (via a heavy bell and a cast iron lid). This method gives dishes an incredible juicy flavor and a rich aromatic smell that will leave you speechless and will certainly be remembered for a long time. Cooking this type of meal can take 2 to 4 hours, so reservations are essential. The best peka can be found in agritourism restaurants in the center of the island, such as Roki’s, Kod Magica or Belotovo.

I would have taken the small path that runs along the coast behind the restaurant on Stoncica beach to access a charming residential micro-bay and its natural swimming pool.