Favignana
The solar island
Favignana is a bit like the grandmother we used to spend our summer holidays with. The nice one, not the other one. The one who grabbed our 2 cheeks with a smile to kiss them like good bread. You have it ? Modest, authentic, friendly and generous, this island in the Aegadian archipelago shines off the coast of Sicily. A disconcerting place, Favignana may not bewitch at first sight, but a few hours is all it takes for you to fall under its spell.
Favignana is a bit like the grandmother we used to spend our summer holidays with. The nice one, not the other. The one who grabbed our 2 cheeks with a smile to kiss them like good bread. You have it ? Modest, authentic, friendly and generous, this island in the Aegadian archipelago shines off the coast of Sicily. A disconcerting place, Favignana may not bewitch at first sight, but a few hours is all it takes for you to fall under its spell.
Under an eternal summer sun and mainly made up of arid land and maquis, Favignana is far from being an inhospitable region. With in particular its irresistible and bewitching turquoise sea. From the wild cove, to the mythical Cala Rossa or to the typical parasols of Lido Burrone, there is only a short leap to take to move on to the next beach.
Journey to the center of the earth
The exploitation of calcareous tuff goes well beyond the shores of Favignana, and with the Palermo aristocracy, where the stone has been used there to build many palaces over the centuries. The island is thus both made up of wide plains and voids caused by its extraction, thus bringing the power of its landscape. The many cavities, galleries and monoliths give it a totally unusual diversity of perspectives.
At the end of the day, the sweltering heat disappears with the arrival of the delicious Favonio, the warm breeze from which Favignana takes its name. The other face of the island, that of gentleness, is then revealed. With your body soaking up the sun, you can enjoy a Spritz in one of the many secluded beach bars, feeling as if you’re at the end of the world.
At the end of the day, the sweltering heat disappears with the arrival of the delicious Favonio, the warm breeze from which Favignana takes its name. The other face of the island, that of gentleness, is then revealed. With your body soaking up the sun, you can enjoy a Spritz in one of the many secluded beach bars, feeling as if you’re at the end of the world.
It is then time to go to the village for dinner. The sun has certainly fallen but the inhabitants of this island radiate joviality. They pose proudly in front of our lens, happily calling with a wave of the hand the rest of the family, the neighbor or the fishmonger friend not far away.
It is then time to go to the village for dinner. The sun has certainly fallen but the inhabitants of this island radiate joviality. They pose proudly in front of our lens, happily calling with a wave of the hand the rest of the family, the neighbor or the fishmonger friend not far away.
The pedestrian village of Favignana invites you to stroll and sit down on the terraces of its many cafes and restaurants to drink grappa with its inhabitants. While always observing from the corner of the eye, the ballet of life on the main piazza where a soft and happy enchanting melting pot of fishermen, children and Italian families on vacation gather around the evening gelato.
In Favignana, the passagieta continues, much to our delight. At nightfall, we make ourselves beautiful to go for a leisurely walk with the members of our family. We exchange the latest news and gossip with our neighbors, and communicate with everyone, whatever their age or social background.
In Favignana, the passagieta continues, much to our delight. At nightfall, we make ourselves beautiful to go for a leisurely walk with the members of our family. We exchange the latest news and gossip with our neighbors, and communicate with everyone, whatever their age or social background.
La Madrague without Brigitte Bardot
As soon as you arrive on the island, you’ll be intrigued by this strange, majestic building on the harbor. This is the old cannery. It is impossible to capture the soul of Favignana without mentioning the highly ceremonial and typically Sicilian Mattanza . Fishermen used to catch bluefin tuna using a skilful system of fixed nets, trap nets. This fishery, which lasted for a millennium, ended up disappearing a few years ago. The cannery, magnificently restored into a museum and cultural center, is a moving place that allows us to understand the very strong involvement and nostalgia of the inhabitants for this lost tradition. To find out more, take a look at Sebastiao Salgado’s splendid project La main de l’homme, and Vincent Maillard’s documentary Le thon, la brute et le truand.
Nicknamed the “Farfalle” with its butterfly shape, Favignana spreads its flat wings over the sea on either side of Mount Santa Caterina . At the top of this backbone, 1 hour walk from the port, the fort with its 360° view proudly overlooks the 2 plains of the island, each with a very distinct atmosphere. 2 islands in one, THE DREAM !
Nicknamed the “Farfalle” with its butterfly shape, Favignana spreads its flat wings over the sea on either side of Mount Santa Caterina . At the top of this backbone, 1 hour walk from the port, the fort with its 360° view proudly overlooks the 2 plains of the island, each with a very distinct atmosphere. 2 islands in one, THE DREAM !
To the east, the Piana, very lively with the village and most of the infrastructure. To the West, the Bosco, much wilder, rural and hilly with a more refined “little je ne sais quoi”. On this part of the island, mainly residential and less frequented, there are small confidential nuggets for eating and staying as well as beaches with a magical view of the island of Levanzo just opposite. Here, the hand of man has discreetly landed, shaping the landscape while respecting its environment.
A stone’s throw from the port, Palazzo Florio is another must-see place in Favignana. With its eclectic, gothic and liberty style, designed by the architect Giuseppe Damiani Almeyda, the palace was one of the residences of the famous Florio family, entrepreneurs of Calabrian origin who projected Sicily into the industrial era. An unusual visit is that of the Giardino dell’Impossibile . A luxuriant garden sheltering more than 300 botanical species in the old stone quarries of the island. A place that defies the laws of the wind, made “possible” thanks to the passion and tenacity of Maria Grazia for 40 years.
A stone’s throw from the port, Palazzo Florio is another must-see place in Favignana. With its eclectic, gothic and liberty style, designed by the architect Giuseppe Damiani Almeyda, the palace was one of the residences of the famous Florio family, entrepreneurs of Calabrian origin who projected Sicily into the industrial era. An unusual visit is that of the Giardino dell’Impossibile . A luxuriant garden sheltering more than 300 botanical species in the old stone quarries of the island. A place that defies the laws of the wind, made “possible” thanks to the passion and tenacity of Maria Grazia for 40 years.
Favignana is a popular destination with Italians for its raw, sincere land, where Sicilian culture is still terribly much alive. Rooted in solid traditions, we love it for its delightful seaside atmosphere, its unusual landscapes, for the freedom to cycle around the island’s beaches, swim in the Caribbean-style sea, and feast on tasty cuisine. We can’t wait for next summer to go back to grandma’s!
Favignana is a popular destination with Italians for its raw, heartfelt land, where Sicilian culture is still terribly much alive. Rooted in solid traditions, we love it for its delightful seaside atmosphere, its unusual landscapes, for the freedom to cycle around the island’s beaches, swim in the Caribbean-style sea, and feast on tasty cuisine. We can’t wait for next summer to go back to grandma’s!
Favignana is
9 km long by 4 km wide
Accessibility
Lodging capacity
Animation
Where is Favignana? Favignana is one of the 3 islands that together with the islands of Levanzo and Marettimothe Egades archipelago in north-west Sicily.
How to get to Favignana? 30-minute crossing by hydrofoil from the port of Trapani, 1 hour’s drive from Palermo.
How to get to Favignana? 30-minute crossing by hydrofoil from the port of Trapani, 1 hour’s drive from Palermo.
How to travel on the island ? Favignana being very flat, you can easily get around by bike. Numerous rental companies (bike, car, scooter) are on the port, including Noleggio Rita.
How to travel on the island ? Favignana being very flat, you can easily get around by bike. Numerous rental companies (bike, car, scooter) are on the port, including Noleggio Rita.
Or sleep ? Most of the infrastructures are grouped together on the eastern part of the island, La Piana, where the main village is also located. The western part of the island, the Bosco, is more residential and unspoiled, with, however, some top-of-the-range accommodation and restaurant options. Here are a few nice addresses I’ve spotted (but not all tested!): Dimora Cala del PozzoDimora dell’OlivastroCas’almareIl Baglio Sull’Acqua
Or sleep ? Most of the infrastructures are grouped together on the eastern part of the island, La Piana, where the main village is also located. The western part of the island, the Bosco, is more residential and unspoiled, with, however, some top-of-the-range accommodation and restaurant options. Here are a few nice addresses I’ve spotted (but not all tested!): Dimora Cala del PozzoDimora dell’OlivastroCas’almareIl Baglio Sull’Acqua
Where to eatIn the village : El Pescadorthe institution since 1974, traditional Sicilian recipes handed down from generation to generation. Quello che c’è c’éfresh local produce, prepared with simplicity and refinement. At Le Bosco , two other addresses with spectacular views over the nearby islands of Marettimo and Levanzo, using mainly produce from their own farms: Cibo, chiacchiere e vinoHere, fresh, natural, organic, fair trade, seasonal, traditional, respectful and natural are anything but a vague concept. Restaurant adjacent to Hotel La Dimora Calla Del Pozzo. Agriturismo l’Alenciorenowned for its locally-raised meats, delicious fish couscous and melt-in-your-mouth tuna tartare.
The book to take in your suitcase? The Lions of Sicily by Stefania Auci, a novel that retraces the myth of the Florio family.
The song to include in your playlist? Dal giorno in cui sei nato tu by Andrea Laszlo de Simone.
And above all, where to drink your Spritz? There are a number of very nice options on the island, but to name just one, it would be A Leva – Solewith its relaxed atmosphere. At sunset, it feels like the end of the world, with a view of the nearby island of Levanzo.
If I had known, …
I would have bought beach slippers. Si, si… Yes, fashion faux pas, but you’ll thank us when you emerge from the water looking like Bo Derek in James Bond. I would have booked the ferry tickets in advance unless I wanted to do a report on the port of Trapani. I would have taken a few extra days to visit the nearby islands of Levanzo and Marettimowhich are quite distinct. Such a shame to be so close and to miss these nuggets.
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