Iraklia

The wild one

Iraklia
Iraklia

You’ll either fall in love with Iraklia as soon as you arrive, or leave the same day! With its prickly pear-covered hills, Iraklia is the first island of the Lesser Cyclades archipelago to be encountered on arrival via Naxos. It is the largest of the archipelago, with 150 permanent residents living on 18 km². In summer, this figure can rise to 1,000 with the arrival of tourists, but it’s fair to say that the island isn’t overrun by crowds… So much the better.

Iraklia is in fact a place untouched by tourism (yes, that still exists, even in the Cyclades). It has to be said that the island is totally undeveloped, with very little infrastructure. The only luxuries here are nature as far as the eye can see and silence.

The arrival at the port of Aghios Georgios is particularly touching: the village gathers at the landing stage to welcome the new arrivals and pick up packages and orders, while others stand impassively under the tamarisk trees on the small sandy beach.

Although the island is relatively large, it is sparsely populated, with almost all social life concentrated in the small port and its few streets. There are still a few inhabitants in the ancient chora of Panaghia, further inland, even if the village appears deserted at first glance.

Largely untamed, Iraklia is a nature destination par excellence: human presence is reduced to a strict minimum. The island’s rocky contours may be sparse in beaches, but they are no less sublime. The most beautiful is the vast beach of Livadi, a long stretch of golden sand which, even in summer, offers peace and space. If you’re lucky enough, you may even come across sea turtles in its crystal-clear waters.

And if you have a car (or are a good walker), don’t miss Tourkopighado beach, 6 km after Panagia. A small bay with crystal-clear waters and a few fishing boats, it’s not very crowded and therefore ultra-calm (in the middle of August, we were alone there). The route also offers a sublime view from the hillside at sunset.

Early in the morning, the village elders go for a swim on Agios Georgios beach and a chat in the café. Some of Iraklia’s beaches, such as those to the south, are only accessible by boat. This is the perfect opportunity for a short sea excursion. If you go to Alimia, you may be able to spot a German seaplane at the bottom of the sea. It was shot down during the Second World War.

Here, time seems totally diluted. The island is much less lively than its (already very quiet) neighbors. We’ll never forget its serenity and the magnificent views over Schinoussa and the rest of the Lesser Cyclades to the east. Far off the beaten track and mountainous, Iraklia will delight hiking enthusiasts, and the clear waters of its pretty, little-visited beaches make it the perfect retreat for getting away from it all and losing track of time.

Iraklia is

7 km long by 3 km wide

Accessibility
Accommodation capacity
Animation

Where is Iraklia located? With Koufonissi, Donoussa and Schinoussa, Iraklia is part of the Lesser Cyclades archipelago, located between Naxos and Amorgos in Greece.

How do I get to Iraklia? You can reach Iraklia by ferry from Naxos (approx. 1h crossing) or from the other islands of the Lesser Cyclades, Koufonissi (1h), Schinoussa (20 min.), Donoussa (2h20).

How to get around the island? The island can be explored on foot, but it’s quite a climb, as it’s mountainous. There is a bus service. However, there are no cabs on the island. Finally, you can hire scooters. To rent a scooter, go to the café To Perasma. By boat: in summer, the Anemos boat offers excursions to the island’s two southern beaches (Karvounolakos and Alimia). Departure at 11 a.m., return at 3.30 p.m. Tickets can be purchased the day before departure (at the Perigiali mini-market on the port). With eight hiking trails, Iraklia is a walker’s delight. For example, from Agios Georgios, a path leads to the cave of Agios Ioannis (2h). We also recommend walking to Mount Pappas, the island’s highest point (419m), where there are natural springs. A path leads from Panagia (2km). From up there, there’s a beautiful panoramic view of the whole island.

Where to sleep and eat? It’s best to book in advance, as accommodation in Iraklia is limited and concentrated in Agios Georgios. HorizonHorizon, 500 m from the port, 7 small sea-facing villas overlooking the beautiful Livadi beach. Simple, meticulous decoration. Villa panorama, a large traditional building located between the village and Livadi beach, offering rooms and apartments as well as a villa with a superb view of the Aegean. Villa Zografos, a small hotel complex perched high above the village, run by Yiannis, an Egyptian interior designer who moved to the island many years ago for love. A little kitsch, but the garden is a veritable oasis. Arakleia, 5 minutes from the port, above Livadi beach. Created in 2019 by committed chef Yiannis Gavalas on his home island. He’s keen to showcase Cycladic produce, like his tyrokoulouri (doughnut) made with 5 different cheeses from Naxos and Mykonos, or his octopus with sundried tomatoes from Syros. A real delight. Thymari, delicious menu, great atmosphere and delicious cocktails with a breathtaking view. Ipovryhio, in the center of the village, a tavern with traditional cuisine and friendly service on three levels, the first offering a breathtaking view of the harbor. Thalassa, on Livadi beach, a traditional taverna with a large shaded terrace. Pleasant between 2 swims.

In Lefko, on the harbor, a small bar upstairs to admire the arrival of the boats. Surfin Bird, on a path above Livadi beach. Nice view and quiet atmosphere. The cuisine features local ingredients with interesting combinations of flavors. You’ll also find traditional Greek dishes and international classics. Syrma, a tavern in Agios Georgios serving good traditional cuisine.

The book to pack in your suitcase? Pages grecques by Michel Déon

The song to include in your playlist? Alone againbyGilbert O’Sullivan

And above all, where to drink your Spritz? At Surfin Bird, for its relaxed atmosphere and view over the superb Livadi beach.

If I had known, …

I would have done the walk to Vorini Spilia.
Follow the small dirt road that starts from the church of Taxiarches in Agios Georgios and after a 25-30 minute walk, you arrive at the beach of Vorini Spilia. The path is relatively easy, but it is advisable to wear shoes suitable for walking. This beach is a real little paradise, especially on windless days. You’re almost guaranteed to find a rather solitary atmosphere, which you’ll appreciate as you bathe in its deep blue waters, framed by a magnificent mountainous landscape.

I would have thought twice before going to this island and with whom. No distractions, no escapes. Good books will sometimes do the trick.

I would have combined my stay with the other islands of the archipelago Koufonissi, Schinoussa and Donoussa to enjoy totally different experiences.

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