Marettimo
The mysterious island
Marettimo is the mysterious island of Tintin, the one that attracts as much as it intimidates. The kind of island lost in the mists in the morning, which welcomes you at midday under a blazing sun and holds you back in the evening because the swell has suddenly risen. It is the furthest and certainly the most magnetic of the 3 islands of the Egadi archipelago, off the coast of Sicily.
Marettimo is Tintin’s mysterious island, which attracts as much as it intimidates. The kind of island lost in the mists in the morning, which welcomes you at noon under a blinding sun and holds you back in the evening because the swell has suddenly risen. It’s the most remote and certainly the most magnetic of the 3 islands in the Egades archipelago, off the coast of Sicily.
Most travellers to the Aegadian archipelago don’t visit this outlying island, which is less obvious for a day trip than its neighbors Favignana and Levanzo. Our boat did not hesitate to make a U-turn in the open sea to drop off a distracted and panicked passenger at the idea of being on his way to Marettimo. While it may seem intimidating at first sight, with its steep terrain and micro-village wedged into the mountainside, the warm welcome of its inhabitants and its charm soon make you feel completely at home on this wild and peaceful island.
Most travellers to the Aegadian archipelago don’t visit this outlying island, which is less obvious for a day trip than its neighbors Favignana and Levanzo. Our boat did not hesitate to make a U-turn in the open sea to drop off a distracted and panicked passenger at the idea of being on his way to Marettimo. While it may seem intimidating at first sight, with its steep terrain and micro-village wedged into the mountainside, the warm welcome of its inhabitants and its charm soon make you feel completely at home on this wild and peaceful island.
In Marettimo, the white houses have blue shutters, and on each of them are magnificent ceramic plaques listing the names of their residents. Strange… because everyone here knows everyone else anyway!☺ The island has a gentle mix of the Cyclades and the not-so-distant North Africa. The village streets are peaceful and pleasant, with a few shops and restaurants where you can sample the typical lobster soup with cinnamon and chopped almonds.
In Marettimo, the white houses have blue shutters, and on each of them are magnificent ceramic plaques listing the names of their residents. Strange… because everyone here knows everyone else anyway!☺ The island has a gentle mix of the Cyclades and the not-so-distant North Africa. The village streets are peaceful and pleasant, with a few shops and restaurants where you can sample the typical lobster soup with cinnamon and chopped almonds.
Life on the island still takes place mainly at sea, and Marettimo’s fishermen are considered the most skilful in the Mediterranean. In the harbor, their little boats sway in lapis lazuli water like lotus flowers on a pond, inviting us to a gentle reverie… … Tomorrow, before dawn, weather permitting, we’ll go with a fisherman to the curtain wall to pick up his nets, which he laid down the night before…
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Nous partirons en bateau admirer la côte avec ses majestueuses falaises, creusées de nombreuses grottes et criques baignées de piscines naturelles aux eaux cristallines… … And we will dive. A protected reserve, the Egades Sea boasts exceptional marine life, especially around Marettimo.
In Ulysses’ home
Yes, it exists. She would be there, in the Tyrrhenian Sea. For some historians, the mythical Ithaca, which the hero of The Odyssey sought at all costs to reach for ten years, is called… Marettimo. The ancient Greek name of the island, quoted by Polybius, was Hier à Nésos meaning “Sacred Island”. The ancient populations of this small Mediterranean land (Phoenicians, Elymians, Sicanes) attributed to this island a sacred character that it still enjoys today.
… When the sea is too rough, we will set off on paths with a unique sensory atmosphere to discover the most beautiful view of the old port and especially its secret garden: the Villa Romane. A delightful abandoned Byzantine chapel, whose perfect proportions and harmony exude an unspeakable serenity.
Pure sensory pleasure
The flora of Marettimo is exceptional, with no fewer than 612 species! Among these, 8 are endemic to the island, including the famous Thyme from which Marettimo derives its name. The island looks like an open-air laboratory where it is possible to admire, in all seasons and from different angles, the fantastic richness of shapes, smells and colors of the Mediterranean landscape. All surrounded by one of Sicily’s most beautiful seas…
… At the end of the day, we all gather in the village for anaperitivo, watching the sun set to the sound of a live jazz concert.
… When the bill comes, I’ll let the boss know that I’m off to get my forgotten wallet in my room. He would then retort me ironically and with a huge smile “Don’t worry, there is no escape from Alcatraz, just enjoy the evening and come back to pay tomorrow morning” … Alcatraz or a Garden of Eden? It’s always a matter of perspective. But isn’t it said that the smaller the island, the bigger the dream?
Marettimo is :
7 km long by 3 km wide
Accessibility
Lodging capacity
Animation
Where is Marettimo? Marettimo is the most remote of the 3 islands of the Egadi archipelago, northwest of Sicily. Less accessible than its neighbors Favignana and Levanzoit is mostly frequented by “continental” Sicilians.
Where is Marettimo? Marettimo is the most remote of the 3 islands of the Egadi archipelago, northwest of Sicily. Less accessible than its neighbors Favignana and Levanzoit is mostly frequented by “continental” Sicilians.
How to get to Marettimo? 1 hour’s drive from Palermo, then about 1h15 byhydrofoil from Trapani.
How to get to Marettimo? 1 hour’s drive from Palermo, then about 1h15 byhydrofoil from Trapani.
How to travel on the island ? Vehicles are prohibited on the island, there are no roads anyway. We therefore move on foot, by bike, by boat or on the back of mules :-)
Where to sleep and eat? There’s a small residence and Marettimo is packed with bed-and-breakfasts, including the cute Casa della Pace run by Franco.
The village offers a wide range of restaurants, food shops and boutiques: La Cambusaa delicatessen and restaurant with its divine aperitif planks, Al Carruboa restaurant a little way up the village that serves succulent Sicilian cuisine based on fish and seafood, enhanced by the island’s spices and citrus fruits.
The book to pack in your suitcase? America, a novel by Michel Moutot.
The song to include in your playlist? Billie Holiday’s Summertime .
And above all, where to drink your Spritz? At Caffe’ Tramontana at the end of the village, for its relaxed atmosphere, its view of Punta Troia, where the castle stands, and its friendly welcome.
If I had known, …
I would have checked ahead for the dates of the annual Marettimo Jazz Festival, either to attend or to have the island to myself.
I would have checked ahead for the dates of the annual Marettimo Jazz Festival, either to attend or to have the island to myself.
I would have taken my best hiking boots, mask and snorkel.
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