Marettimo
The mysterious island
Marettimo is the mysterious island of Tintin, the one that attracts as much as it intimidates.
The kind of island lost in the mists in the morning, which welcomes you at noon under a blazing sun and holds you back in the evening because the swell has suddenly risen. It is the furthest and certainly the most magnetic of the 3 islands of the Aegadian archipelago, off the coast of Sicily.
Marettimo is the mysterious island of Tintin, the one that attracts as much as it intimidates.
The kind of island lost in the mists in the morning, which welcomes you at noon under a blinding sun and holds you back in the evening because the swell has suddenly risen. It is the furthest and certainly the most magnetic of the 3 islands of the Aegadian archipelago, off the coast of Sicily.
Most travelers who visit the Aegadian archipelago do not go to this remote island, less obvious for a day trip than its neighbors Favignana and Levanzo. Our boat did not hesitate to make a U-turn in the open sea to drop off a distracted and panicked passenger at the idea of being on his way to Marettimo.
If it can intimidate at first sight with its steep relief and its stuck micro-village on the mountainside, the warm welcome of its inhabitants and its charm quickly make you feel in total intimacy on this calm and wild island.
Most travelers who visit the Aegadian archipelago do not go to this outlying island, which is less obvious for a day trip than its neighbors Favignana and Levanzo. Our boat did not hesitate to make a U-turn in the open sea to drop off a distracted and panicked passenger at the idea of being on his way to Marettimo.
If it can intimidate at first sight with its steep relief and its micro-village stuck on the mountainside, the warm welcome of its inhabitants and its charm quickly make you feel in total intimacy on this calm and wild island.
In Marettimo, the white houses have blue shutters with on each of them magnificent ceramic plaques mentioning the names of their residents.
Weird… because anyway, everyone here knows each other!☺
It floats on this island a sweet mix between the Cyclades and North Africa, not so far away.
The streets of the village are peaceful and pleasant with a few shops and restaurants where you can taste the typical lobster soup with cinnamon and chopped almonds.
In Marettimo, the white houses have blue shutters with on each of them magnificent ceramic plaques mentioning the names of their residents.
Weird… because anyway, everyone here knows each other!☺
It floats on this island a sweet mix between the Cyclades and North Africa, not so far away. The streets of the village are peaceful and pleasant with a few shops and restaurants where you can taste the typical lobster soup with cinnamon and chopped almonds.
Life on the island still takes place mainly at sea and the fishermen of Marettimo are considered the most skilled in the Mediterranean. In the port, their little boats sway in lapis lazuli water like lotus flowers on a pond, inviting you to sweet reverie…
… Tomorrow, before dawn, if the weather allows it, we will go with a curtain fisherman to pick up his nets deposited the day before, at nightfall…
… We will leave by boat to admire the coast with its majestic cliffs, dug by numerous caves and creeks bathed in natural pools with crystal clear waters…
… And we will dive. A protected reserve, the Aegadian Sea contains an exceptional marine fauna, especially around Marettimo.
In Ulysses’ house
Yes, it exists. She would be there, in the Tyrrhenian Sea. For some historians, the mythical Ithaca, which the hero of The Odyssey sought at all costs to reach for ten years, is called… Marettimo. The ancient Greek name of the island, quoted by Polybius, was Hier à Nésos meaning “Sacred Island”. The ancient populations of this restricted land of the Mediterranean (Phoenicians, Elymes, Sicanes) indeed attributed to this island a sacred character which it still enjoys today.
… When the sea is too rough, we will set off on paths with a unique sensory atmosphere to discover the most beautiful view of the old port and especially its secret garden: the Villa Romane. A delightful abandoned Byzantine chapel, whose perfect proportions and harmony radiate an indescribable serenity.
Pure sensory bliss
Marettimo’s flora is exceptional with no less than 612 species! Among these, 8 are endemic to the island, including the famous Thyme from which Marettimo derives its name. The island looks like an open-air laboratory where it is possible to admire, in all seasons and from different angles, the fantastic richness of shapes, smells and colors of the Mediterranean landscape. All surrounded by one of the most beautiful seas in Sicily…
… At the end of the day, we will all meet in the village for the aperitivo, admiring the sunset to the sound of a live concert of jazz music.
… When the bill comes, I’ll let the boss know that I’m off to get my forgotten wallet in my room. He would then retort me ironically and with a huge smile “Don’t worry, there is no escape from Alcatraz, just enjoy the evening and come back to pay tomorrow morning” …
Alcatraz or the garden of Eden? It’s always a matter of perspective.
However, don’t we say that the smaller the islands, the bigger the dreams…?
Marettimo is:
7 km long by 3 km wide
Accessibility
Accommodation capacity
Animation
Where is Marettimo? Marettimo is the most remote of the 3 islands of the Aegadian archipelago,
northwest of Sicily. Less easily accessible than its neighbors Favignana and Levanzo,
it is mostly frequented by “mainland” Sicilians.
Where is Marettimo? Marettimo is the most remote of the 3 islands of the Egadi archipelago, northwest of Sicily. Less easily accessible than its neighbors Favignana and Levanzo , it is mostly frequented by “mainland” Sicilians.
How to get to Marettimo? 1 hour drive from Palermo then about 1h15 by hydrofoil from Trapani.
How to get to Marettimo? 1 hour drive from Palermo then about 1h15 by hydrofoil from Trapani.
How to travel on the island ? Vehicles are prohibited on the island, there are no roads anyway.
You can move either on foot, by bike, by boat or on the back of mules :-)
Where to sleep and eat? There is a small residence and Marettimo is full of homestays
including the cute Casa della Pace run by Franco. In the village, there are various restaurants, few small supermarkets as well as some shops:
La Cambusa, delicatessen and restaurant with divine boards for the aperitif,
Al Carrubo, a restaurant a little on the heights of the village which offers succulent Sicilian cuisine based on fish and seafood, embellished with spices and citrus fruits from the island.
The book to take in your suitcase? The America , a novel by Michel Moutot.
The song to include in your playlist? Summertime by Billie Holiday.
And most importantly, where to drink Spritz? At Caffe’ Tramontana at the end of the village for its relaxed atmosphere, its view of Punta Troia where the castle sits and its very friendly service.
If I had known, …
I would have checked beforehand the dates of the annual Marettimo Jazz Festival, either to attend
or to have the island for myself.
I would have checked ahead of time for the annual Marettimo Jazz Festival either to attend or to have the island to myself.
I would have taken my best hiking boots, mask and snorkel.
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