Salina
The Epicurean
Salina is one of the Aeolian islands least affected by tourism. Those who like city walks and comfort will prefer Lipari, while those who prefer the wild side will go to Stromboli or Vulcano, while others will find Panarea, Alicudi and Filicudi will find the eco-friendly glamour they’re looking for.
If, like Aeolus, Bacchus were to take up residence among the Aeolian Islands, he would undoubtedly have chosen Salina, once mainly covered with vineyards. With its dual character, Salina asserts the dormant power of its two formative volcanoes from afar, among the Aeolian islands off the coast of Sicily. With just 27 km2 and 2,300 inhabitants spread over three communes, the island is also the most luxuriant and the most suitable for excursions.
At once rural, wooded and seaside, Salina is an exception among its sisters in terms of its greenery, intense cultivation and profusion of fresh water. With a limited number of tourists, a slow pace and all the charm of Italy, Salina is La Dolce Vita in a very small area.
The island has all the colors and flavors of Italy. From small village houses to churches and ancient palazzos, it offers an incredible palette of yellows, ochres, pinks and oranges. Decrepit old walls crumble under the bougainvillea, jasmine and lemon trees that fill the air.
Quiet and harmonious, with its houses scattered across the countryside, it has the charm of serenity. It was in Salina, in the tranquil village of Pollara with the island’s most beautiful beach to the north-west, that the film The Postman (Il Postino) was shot, recounting the Italian exile of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda, played by Philippe Noiret. A large amphitheatre-shaped cliff, plunging into the sea and sublime at sunset. The theatrical allure of this place is no accident. Long ago, this was the crater of a volcano, gradually nibbled away by greedy waves, and now only half of it remains.
The island has 3 communes. Santa Marina is most often approached as a charming village drowned in oleanders and palm trees, with a long, traffic-free main street lined with chic boutiques, food stores and restaurants.
We do, however, have a soft spot for the relaxed, gentle atmosphere of Malfa, the small hillside town reached by a winding road at leisure. It was here, with its collection of restored old farmhouses and small gardens, that the Signum hotel put the island on the Italian-bohemian map when it opened 26 years ago, and has since become a place of worship for Sicilian insiders. Malfa has a small pebble beach with an adjoining beach bar. Huge inflatable mattresses are available for hire, and can be used as beds on the beach or as boats to float on the crystal-clear water, much to the delight of children.
Take a stroll through Vepsa. Have a coffee in the little squares of sleepy villages, stop off at a ceramic tile factory, another of the island’s specialties, have a languorous lunch among the vines or facing the sea, enjoy a granita at Alfredo’s and end the day on one of the island’s black sand or pebble beaches. Do it all over again the next day. It’s up to each visitor to invent his or her own story here.
Salina is
7 km long by 5 km wide
Accessibility
Accommodation capacity
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Where is Salina located? In northeastern Sicily, among the archipelago of the seven Aeolian Islands in the Thyrrhenian Sea(Alicudi, Filicudi, Vulcano, Lipari, Stromboli, and Panarea). Salina is second, both in size and population.
How to get to Salina 2-hour hydrofoil crossing from Palermo or Milazzo.
How to get around the island? The island’s main attractions are fairly widely scattered, and it’s easy to rent a car (although it’s best to book in high season). If you have time, you can also take advantage of the excellent bus service.
Where to sleep and eat?
Hotel Signum: in the heart of the small village of Malfa, this collection of old houses in soft colors is, in our opinion, one of the most beautiful hotels on the island. A lush garden offers quiet spots to relax in the shade of trellises or olive trees. The entire site is dotted with antiques and is overflowing with flowers and fruit trees. The rooms are monastic, with furniture from the last century and curtains made from old embroidered linen sheets. You feel like a guest in a Sicilian home. The restaurant is also run by Martina Caruso, one of Italy’s most outstanding young Michelin-starred chefs.
Le Principe de Salina: it seems to be suspended above the sea, just like its airy terraces. Inside, you’ll find Persian carpets and nooks for dozing. Simple, elegant dinners of grilled calamari and salads are served, as are perfect lunches of smoked swordfish.
Capofaro: this former lighthouse, lost amidst vineyards with a breathtaking view of the sea, has been transformed into a 5-star hotel all in immaculate white. Each sleekly decorated room opens onto a pretty terrace facing the sea, with the Stromboli volcano visible in the distance. The green of the Malvasia vines blends with the fuchsia of the bougainvillea and the dazzling white of the buildings. The atmosphere is zen-like, and during the day, calm reigns by the huge swimming pool. A large vegetable garden supplies fresh vegetables and herbs to the hotel’s gourmet restaurant.
Portobello Restaurant: on a beautiful terrace facing the harbor, this renowned restaurant serves fish specialties, of course. But the style is more fusion, incorporating local ingredients, such as raw swordfish marinated in lemon (from Sicily) and mint, or tuna bricks with Malvasia wine (the wine of the Aeolian Islands). Reservations highly recommended.
Da Franco: we eat under a beautiful pergola and in front of an incredible panorama. In a very rustic, Sicilian, family-style setting, everything is delicious. The house specialty is spaghetti with sea urchins and fresh pasta with prawns and basil. The pizza menu is also highly recommendable, with an interesting choice of compositions. The desserts, with their pistachio and chocolate chips, are to die for.
The book to pack in your suitcase? An ardent patience by Antonio Skarmeta.
The song to include in your playlist? Don’t you dare stop by Say She She
And especially where to drink your Spritz? At La Locanda del Postino in Pollara. The sunsets here seem nothing short of divine.
If I had known, …
I’d have planned a massage at the Signum hotel, which boasts one of Italy’s most beautiful spas. Resembling ancient Roman baths, the spa is completely open-air, and you bathe between the old village walls covered in bougainvillea before stretching out under the olive trees.
I would have explored the island on a private boat trip. Plenty of options in port; we recommend Blu Salina. Antonello, an Aeolian sailor, steers the boat while his partner Elena, an archaeologist, shares her cultural knowledge of the island. If you’re lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of dolphins during your trip.
I would have set off to climb Monte Fossa delle Felci, the island’s highest point (962 m). It’s a four- to five-hour hike from the town to the summit, with a 1,000-metre ascent. The slopes are steep and the stairs in-ter-mi-nable, but well worth the effort. The path winds through lush forest and mist, where the temperature drops considerably. Even on a summer’s day, it feels like stepping into a fridge.
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